daily wine picks

More than $30

Mar. 06, 2004: GUNDERLOCH Riesling Auslese Rheinhessen Nackenheim Rothenberg 2002 (94 points, $43)

Beautiful clarity and expression. Bright aromas and flavors of peach, pineapple, grapefruit and mineral highlight this airy auslese. It seems like the intensity is burned onto the vibrant structure. Fine length. Drink now through 2020. 300 cases made. Hi —Bruce Sanderson

Mar. 04, 2004: CHÂTEAU COS-D'ESTOURNEL St.-Estèphe 2001 (94 points, $65)

Wonderful spice and currant aromas to this young wine. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated, refined tannins. Long, caressing finish. This is very, very silky. Just like from barrel. Cos is on top of it now. Best after 2008. 17,705 cases made. Highly R —James Suckling

Mar. 02, 2004: CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan 2001 (95 points, $150)

Intense aromas of violets, berries and spices follow through to a full-bodied palate, with layers of supersilky tannins and a long, long finish. Very, very classic in style. All in elegance and length. I like it better than the 2000. Best after 2009. Col —James Suckling

Feb. 26, 2004: CONCHA Y TORO Chardonnay Casablanca Valley Amelia 2002 (90 points, $33)

There's a load of pear, fig and papaya fruit here, but it's all held in check by ripe, racy acidity. A crackling mineral edge and floral and citrus peel notes lend further definition on the finish. Brief cellaring will allow this to round into form nicely —James Molesworth

Feb. 23, 2004: VALETTE FONTAINE El Principal Maipo Valley 2001 (91 points, $40)

Ripe and direct, with a wall of black currant, coffee, bittersweet chocolate ganache and toast aromas and flavors. Dense, but lots of sweet fruit here, this really stretches out in the glass. Firm yet focused, let this flesh out in the cellar. Cabernet Sa —James Molesworth