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daily wine picks

More than $30

Oct. 22, 2004: BODEGAS OSTATU Rioja Gloria de Ostatu 2001 (92 points, $80)

Alluring aromas of black cherry and smoke follow through on the palate in this solid red, then linger on the smoky finish. It shows traditional flavors--tobacco, spice, tea--but has the focus and depth of the modern style. Drink now through 2012. 1,000 ca —Thomas Matthews

Oct. 21, 2004: DOMAINE TEMPIER Bandol Cuvée Spéciale 2001 (92 points, $32)

Rich and ripe with plenty of muscle and fine-grained tannins, as well as a decadent meaty aroma. Flavors of dark plum, leather, blackberry and spice are broad and mouth-filling. Chocolate, mineral and smoky notes fill the finish. Drink now through 2008. —Kim Marcus

Oct. 20, 2004: LUCE DELLA VITE Toscana Luce 2001 (92 points, $75)

Plenty of blackberry and fresh leather aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a long caressing finish. This is a seductive, ultrarefined wine. This firmly places Luce in the big leagues. Well done. Best after 2005. 7,300 case —James Suckling

Oct. 19, 2004: N. JOLY Savennières-Roche aux Moines Clos de la Bergerie 2002 (92 points, $45)

Nervy and taut, with cardamom, humus, lemon peel, marzipan and chamomile flavors. This is bony and dry but long and finely tuned, with the flavors echoing beautifully. Drink now through 2014. 800 cases made. From France. —James Molesworth

Oct. 18, 2004: NICOLAS FEUILLATTE Brut Champagne Mevushal NV NV (91 points, $45)

Kosher. Lush aromas of flowers, candied citrus and mineral are backed by a vivid structure and dry profile. It's balanced, intense and long on the finish. Real character here. Drink now through 2010. 1,700 cases imported. From France. —Bruce Sanderson

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