daily wine picks

More than $30

Sep. 12, 2003: RAYMOND USSEGLIO Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2001 (93 points, $33)

Here's another racy '01 Châteauneuf that Rhône lovers will want to track down. Delightful, elegant and classy, this displays the mineral, stony, chalky, plummy and smoke-leather complexity of the appellation, all in a clean, long and refined style. Brav —Per-Henrik Mansson

Sep. 11, 2003: DOMINIO DE PINGUS Ribera del Duero 2000 (93 points, $325)

This cult wine from Spain's Ribera del Duero region is impressive again in the '00 vintage. Lavish oak gives alluring chocolate and toasty flavors, yet there's enough ripe fruit for balance, with notes of cassis and blueberry. Firm, ripe tannins give age- —Thomas Matthews

Sep. 05, 2003: DOMAINE DE LA JANASSE Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2001 (94 points, $75)

The father-and-son team of Aimé and Christophe Sabon have this southern Rhône domaine in top form these days. The Vieilles Vignes (old vines) bottling is their top cuvée. Blockbuster Châteauneuf -- rich and thick yet loyal to local customs with its tr —Per-Henrik Mansson

Sep. 04, 2003: ALTESINO Brunello di Montalcino 1998 (91 points, $60)

Though the '98 vintage is not up to the classic '97 in terms of quality, Tuscany still fared very well. This Brunello from one of the region's top producers offers aromas of plums, leather and dried flowers that cascade out of the glass. Full-bodied, with —James Suckling

Sep. 03, 2003: PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia Grange 1998 (99 points, $205)

Australia's best-known collectible wine has turned in a powerful, aristocratic and impressive performance in the just released '98 vintage. It gathers up its flavors and lets them hang on and on and on while the finish lingers. The range starts with black —Harvey Steiman

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