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More than $30

Nov. 20, 2004: LILBERT FILS Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne NV 2002 (92 points, $40)

Delicious, if atypical. Exotic tropical fruit and coconut notes mingle with fresh chanterelle and vanilla pastry in this distinctive dry Champagne. It's beautifully balanced, long and expressive, with a mineral note grounding it on the finish. Drink now. —Bruce Sanderson

Nov. 19, 2004: DUVAL-LEROY Brut Champagne 1996 (93 points, $42)

A beautiful bubbly. Firm, dry and intensely flavored, offering candied berry, vanilla pastry, honey and hazelnut notes wrapped in an elegant frame. It releases the flavors in a well-defined, appealing manner. Fine length and aftertaste. Drink now through —Bruce Sanderson

Nov. 18, 2004: BODEGAS EMILIO MORO Ribera del Duero Malleolus de Valderramiro 2002 (94 points, $165)

Like a Ferrari with a teenager behind the wheel, this red shows extraordinary power and class, but youth undermines its focus and control. Its ripe black fruit flavors are enriched by mocha-scented oak and coat the palate, supported by muscular yet well-i —Thomas Matthews

Nov. 17, 2004: PAGO DE LOS CAPELLANES Ribera del Duero El Picón 1999 (95 points, $165)

An impressive marriage of power and elegance. This is a big, bold red with ripe plum and blackberry flavors, and the requisite frame of spicy oak, but it also shows floral, mineral and game flavors, multifaceted and alluring. A world-class wine in the ful —Thomas Matthews

Nov. 16, 2004: BOLLINGER Brut Rosé Champagne Grand Année 1996 (95 points, $166)

Extremely fresh and aromatic, with a veritable spice box of clove and ginger highlighting the berry notes in this sharply-focused, powerful rosé. Grilled nuts and whole-grain bread complete the flavor profile. It goes for muscle over finesse and it works —Bruce Sanderson

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