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daily wine picks

More than $30

Dec. 04, 2004: PHILIPPE DELESVAUX Coteaux du Layon Sélection de Grains Nobles 2002 (99 points, $50/500ml)

The subtle aromas of fig paste and maple syrup belie the intensity of the green tea, blood-orange marmalade, date, dried apricot and honey flavors that are seamlessly intertwined. And when you're ready to take another sip, you realize the incredibly lithe —James Molesworth

Dec. 03, 2004: ALEX GAMBAL Clos Vougeot 2002 (96 points, $150)

Intense and packed with black cherry, mineral and spice elements, matched by a vibrant acidity and dense tannins. The oak is almost completely absorbed by this unevolved monolith, which leaves a sweet fruit and spice aftertaste. Best from 2007 through 202 —Bruce Sanderson

Dec. 02, 2004: MARQUÉS DE GRIÑON Syrah Viño de Mesa de Toledo Dominio de Valdepusa 2001 (94 points, $35)

Powerful aromas of anise, game and tar may be too strong for some, but they morph into ripe blackberry, cassis, espresso, black pepper, licorice and mineral flavors on the palate. The texture is plush, the tannins massive but well-integrated, and the frui —Thomas Matthews

Dec. 01, 2004: CHAMPY Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2002 (96 points, $68)

Brooding and animallike, this is a wild red, evoking terroir with its aromatic intensity and incredible length. It explodes on the palate with black cherry, herb and tobacco flavors. Very dense, concentrated and long on the finish, it needs to inte —Bruce Sanderson

Nov. 30, 2004: JACQUES SELOSSE Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne NV 2002 (94 points, $55)

Deep golden in color, this has explosive aromas and flavors of coffee, vanilla, apricot, citrus and toasted hazelnut. A bold, brazen Champagne, it possesses a firm underlying structure, ripe fruit and a long, sumptuous, smoke- and spice-filled finish. Dri —Bruce Sanderson

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