daily wine picks

$15 to $30

Aug. 03, 1999: DOMAINE DU VIEUX TELEGRAPHE Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieux Mas des Papes 1997 (91 points, $30)

Beautiful. Very ripe, fat texture, with good concentration of opulent plum and black fruits, and a wet-earth taste that continues on the lingering and balanced smoky finish. Drink now through 2005. 4,165 cases made.

Jul. 31, 1999: THE HESS COLLECTION Chardonnay Napa Valley 1997 (90 points, $18)

Bright, with lively intensity to the complex grapefruit, melon, pear and spice flavors framed by pretty toasty, cedary oak. Drink now through 2003. 30,000 cases made.

Jul. 30, 1999: STEELE Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard 1997 (88 points, $26)

Supple, ripe and polished, with well-focused cherry, cola, vanilla and spice, turning smooth and focused. Drink now through 2004. 1,200 cases made.

Jul. 29, 1999: BERNARDUS Chardonnay Monterey County (90 points, $18)

Smooth and creamy, with rich fig, pear, hazelnut and citrus flavors that are complex and inviting. A touch coarse; short-term cellaring should do the trick. Drink now through 2003. 39,000 cases made.

Jul. 24, 1999: CHATEAU MONT-REDON Chateauneuf-du-Pape (89 points, $30)

A delicious Rhone red, with a classy blackberry, toasty, floral aroma suggesting clever oak-aging, but it's all very ripe and velvety and then delivers fresh character on the lively finish. Drink now through 2005. Should be easy to track down some of the

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