daily wine picks

$15 to $30

Sep. 22, 1999: ESTANCIA Meritage Alexander Valley 1996 (90 points, $30)

This Bordeaux-style red delivers complex and focused plum, currant, spice, cinnamon and cedar flavors that flow to a gentle finish with soft, integrated tannins. An elegant and enticing California bottling. Drink now through 2004. A blend of Cabernet Sauv

Sep. 14, 1999: JEAN-MARC BROCARD Chablis Vaucoupin 1997 (93 points, $26)

While Burgundy's Cote d'Or whites are uneven in '97, Chablis has performed well. This one is thick, rich and ripe, with a lovely mouthfeel, nice honey, pear, wet earth and mineral flavors and a subtle, silky finish that is just ravishing. Amazing. Drink n

Sep. 13, 1999: RAYMOND Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve (90 points, $23)

Firm, focused and complex, leading with a smoky, toasty core of oak, ripe black cherry, currant, cedar and tar flavors. Wonderfully complex on the finish, where the flavors persist. Drink now through 2007. 41,375 cases made.

Sep. 10, 1999: LOUIS JADOT Savigny-les-Beaune Les Vergelesses 1997 (91 points, $28)

This beautiful '97 red Burgundy delivers tar and petrol aromas but also a rich, ripe, supple yet very clean and pure mouthfeel. Gorgeous integration of plum, blackberry and toast notes, with a racy and totally natural-tasting finish. Brilliant winemaking

Sep. 03, 1999: PRIDE Merlot Napa Valley (92 points, $30)

A step up in price but worth the search, as this is a winery on the rise. Wonderful ripe fruit, with rich, complex cherry, currant, anise, cedar and spice. Gains depth and nuance on the finish, where it keeps pumping out the flavors. Drink now through 200

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