daily wine picks

$15 to $30

Dec. 02, 1999: LEASINGHAM Shiraz Clare Valley Bin 61 1997 (90 points, $15)

Brimming with brilliant raspberry and plum flavors, this pretty wine finishes with a nicely polished texture. The emphasis is on fruit all the way, so it's seductive to drink already. Best after 2002. 25,000 cases made.

Nov. 30, 1999: CHÂTEAU CABRIÈRES Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1998 (90 points, $25)

A silky '98, so full in the mouth, so ripe and balanced. Fresh while being rich, it doesn't taste alcoholic or hot, just clean and pure, with a velvety feel from start to finish. Drink now through 2010. 11,665 cases made.

Nov. 27, 1999: JEAN-PIERRE BOISSON Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Père Caboche 1998 (90 points, $18)

A goodie from the southern Rhône's potentially excellent '98 vintage. An extracted, compacted fruit bomb, with silky tannins and a round, rich, full mouthfeel. Modern approach focuses more on fruit than terroir, but the smoothness is impressive. Drink no

Nov. 22, 1999: NEYERS Chardonnay Napa Valley 1998 (91 points, $30)

This California Chardonnay has lots of up-front complexity, with layers of fig, vanilla, apricot, melon and spice. Holds its focus on the tasty finish. Drink now through 2002. 3,000 cases made.

Nov. 20, 1999: DOMAINE BRUSSET Gigondas Le Grand Montmirail 1998 (94 points, $20)

Perfect. Amazing for its clean, pure fruit, silky tannins and balance between natural alcohol and acidity. One sip will convince you of its greatness. It slips down the throat like the most velvety drink possible, yet there's enough grip to hold it togeth

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