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daily wine picks

$15 to $30

Jan. 10, 2004: CHÂTEAU MONTUS Madiran 2000 (90 points, $22)

A brooding, full-flavored red, with loads of character and power. Starts with aromas of smoked meat and flavors of dark plum and ham hocks. Tannins build on the finish, which is filled with plenty of decadent earth and mushroom notes. Best from 2004 throu —Kim Marcus

Jan. 09, 2004: JADE MOUNTAIN Syrah Napa Valley 2001 (92 points, $28)

Rich, intense and expansive, with layers of ripe, almost syrupy blackberry and wild berry fruit, shaded by spice, tar, pepper and cedar notes. Finishes with firm yet supple tannins. Gorgeous Syrah. Drink now through 2010. 720 cases made. Highly Recommend —James Laube

Jan. 08, 2004: MEULENHOF Riesling Spätlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2002 (93 points, $20)

This dances on the palate. Floral, lime, peach and mineral aromas and flavors show intensity, yet remain ethereal and perfectly integrated with the lightweight frame. But the flavors go on and on. Drink now through 2020. 400 cases made. Highly Recommende —Bruce Sanderson

Jan. 06, 2004: CHÂTEAU BOUSCASSÉ Madiran Vieilles Vignes 2000 (93 points, $30)

Alain Brumont fashioned this powerful and well-structured red from France's Southwest, with dark plum, smoke and dark cherry flavors, and loads of meat and coffee notes. Full-bodied, with licorice and mocha elements on the long, long finish. Best from 200 —Kim Marcus

Dec. 30, 2003: RICHARD BOURGEOIS Sancerre 2002 (89 points, $18)

The Loire enjoyed a solid harvest in 2002. This Sauvignon Blanc bottling is rich and spicy for Sancerre, with lemon floral, straw and grapefruit notes as well. Nice juicy, lingering finish. Drink now through 2004. 10,000 cases made. Smart Buys. —James Molesworth

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