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daily wine picks

$15 to $30

Oct. 21, 2004: ARCENO Toscana Prima Voce 2002 (90 points, $24)

Lots of berry and coffee character on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, with round tannins and a ripe fruit aftertaste. Best after 2005. 1,150 cases made. From Italy. —James Suckling

Oct. 20, 2004: PIPER-HEIDSIECK Brut Champagne NV NV (90 points, $30)

An assertive, graphite-laced bubbly with citrus, honey and spice filling out the flavor spectrum. Concentrated and densely textured, with a lively acidity and lingering aftertaste. Drink now through 2009. From France. —Bruce Sanderson

Oct. 19, 2004: J. LASSALLE Brut Champagne NV NV (90 points, $30)

An extremely distinctive Champagne. An intense red berry note pervades, with shades of citrus and ginger adding complexity. It's dry and vividly structured, with a lean, intense finish. Not typical, but very tasty. Drink now. From France. —Bruce Sanderson

Oct. 18, 2004: VILLA BRANCA Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 (90 points, $22)

Solid, tasty red, with Indian spices, red and dark berries and mineral aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a spicy finish. Drink now. 2,200 cases made. From Italy. —James Suckling

Oct. 16, 2004: FAMILIA RUTINI Chardonnay Tupungato Felipe Rutini 2002 (89 points, $16)

This offers bold aromas of pineapple, cherimoya and toast, followed by notes of hazelnut, honey, pear and fig. Despite all its plump, tropical notes, it has fine, minerally acidity driving its finish. Delicious. Drink now through 2005. 1,000 cases importe —James Molesworth

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