daily wine picks

$15 to $30

Oct. 29, 2004: CHARLES DE CAZANOVE Brut Champagne Cazanova NV NV (88 points, $28)

A medium-bodied, assertive fizz, this offers pencil shaving, orange and berry notes in a firmly structured profile. Balanced toward the acidity, with good length. Drink now through 2008. 1,200 cases made. From France. —Bruce Sanderson

Oct. 28, 2004: FATTORIA DI FELSINA Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 (88 points, $26)

Plenty of blackberry and cherry character with hints of mineral. Medium- to full-bodied, with fresh fruit and a clean finish. Slightly closed. Best after 2004. 3,300 cases made. From Italy. —James Suckling

Oct. 27, 2004: BODEGA Y VIÑEDOS Solabal Rioja Crianza 2001 (89 points, $16)

This alluring red is rich, thick and ripe, with cassis and blackberry flavors unusual for Rioja, braced by ripe tannins and toasty oak. Though lush, it remains lively, a good match with food. Drink now through 2011. 2,500 cases made. From Spain. —Thomas Matthews

Oct. 26, 2004: CASTELLO DI QUERCETO Chianti Classico Riserva 2000 (91 points, $18)

Delicious CC, with blackberry and chocolaty character. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a fresh minerally finish. This is serious Chianti. Drink now. 8,330 cases made. From Italy. —James Suckling

Oct. 25, 2004: PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT Sancerre Apud Sariacum 2003 (89 points, $21)

Plump and forward, with peach and pear flavors atop modest hints of citrus peel and herbs. With patience, flint and herb notes emerge more on the finish. Solid for the vintage but I prefer the '02 versions for their verve and balance. Drink now. 3,000 cas —James Molesworth

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