daily wine picks

$15 to $30

Nov. 27, 1999: JEAN-PIERRE BOISSON Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Père Caboche 1998 (90 points, $18)

A goodie from the southern Rhône's potentially excellent '98 vintage. An extracted, compacted fruit bomb, with silky tannins and a round, rich, full mouthfeel. Modern approach focuses more on fruit than terroir, but the smoothness is impressive. Drink no

Nov. 22, 1999: NEYERS Chardonnay Napa Valley 1998 (91 points, $30)

This California Chardonnay has lots of up-front complexity, with layers of fig, vanilla, apricot, melon and spice. Holds its focus on the tasty finish. Drink now through 2002. 3,000 cases made.

Nov. 20, 1999: DOMAINE BRUSSET Gigondas Le Grand Montmirail 1998 (94 points, $20)

Perfect. Amazing for its clean, pure fruit, silky tannins and balance between natural alcohol and acidity. One sip will convince you of its greatness. It slips down the throat like the most velvety drink possible, yet there's enough grip to hold it togeth

Nov. 16, 1999: RIDGE Geyserville California 2005 (92 points, $28)

This hearty Zinfandel blend from Ridge is a perennial winner. The '97 is dense and earthy, delivering layers of complex cherry, wild berry, raspberry, cedar and spice, turning supple and polished, culminating in a long aftertaste. Drink now through 2005.

Nov. 12, 1999: FATTORIA DI FELSINA Chianti Classico Berardenga 1997 (91 points, $22)

Just as expected from Felsina: a superb Chianti Classico, displaying lots of cherry, berry and wet earth character. The wine is medium-bodied, with medium, silky tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Drink now through 2001. 13,330 cases made.