daily wine picks


$15 to $30

Feb. 18, 2005: VON HÖVEL Riesling Spätlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Scharzhofberger 2003 (89 points, $25)

A mineral character pervades this apricot- and orange-flavored white. It's concentrated and intense, with a crisp, bright sensation on the finish. More delicate and gossamer than many '03s. Drink now through 2012. From Germany. —Bruce Sanderson

Feb. 17, 2005: JOHANNISHOF Riesling Spätlese Rheingau Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland 2003 (90 points, $26)

Dense and creamy, this offers peach, vanilla custard and mineral aromas and flavors matched to a firm structure. It gets a little pinched on the finish, with a lingering aftertaste. Best from 2006 through 2015. 400 cases made. From Germany. —Bruce Sanderson

Feb. 16, 2005: JOH. JOS. CHRISTOFFEL ERBEN Riesling Spätlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Erdener Treppchen 2003 (89 points, $30)

Spicy and lively, this creamy, red berry- and citrus-infused white remains focused and tangy through the finish. It goes for freshness over concentration. Drink now through 2015. From Germany. —Bruce Sanderson

Feb. 15, 2005: REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT Riesling Spätlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Kaseler Nies'chen 2003 (90 points, $28)

Fresh and piquant, this offers lime, peach and slate notes that persist through the long finish. Though open and airy in texture, it has concentration and harmony. Drink now through 2020. 540 cases made. From Germany. —Bruce Sanderson

Feb. 14, 2005: ST.-URBANS-HOF Riesling Spätlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Ockfener Bockstein 2003 (90 points, $19)

Pungent and intense, with a lightweight, gossamer profile, this is quintessential Mosel, albeit in a hot vintage. It borders on licorice flavor, with slate and citrus accents. Long finish. Drink now through 2015. 600 cases made. From Germany. —Bruce Sanderson

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