daily wine picks


$15 to $30

Oct. 21, 2005: DOPFF & IRION Tokay Pinot Gris Alsace Les Maquisards Domaines de Riquewihr 2002 (89 points, $23)

Though not that expressive, the quince, apricot and orange notes offer depth and density, making this white full-bodied and persistent. It's softened a little and has freshness and balance. Drink now through 2008. 2,000 cases made. —Bruce Sanderson

Oct. 20, 2005: PASCAL JOLIVET Pouilly-Fumé 2003 (89 points, $23)

Soft, but with nice depth to the lemon verbena, straw and stone notes. Lengthy finish. Drink now. 10,000 cases made. —James Molesworth

Oct. 19, 2005: DOMAINE SAUTEREAU Sancerre Côtes de Reigny 2003 (89 points, $19)

Richer style, with lemon verbena, straw, mineral and honeysuckle flavors riding along fresh acidity. Nice, firm, stony finish. Drink now through 2006. 5,800 cases made. —James Molesworth

Oct. 18, 2005: GUY BRÉTON Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2003 (90 points, $25)

Edgy at first, with lively acidity pulling along red and black cherry, violet, mineral and sandalwood flavors. Long, alluring finish—like a Burgundy. Needs some short-term cellaring though. Drink now through 2007. 300 cases imported. —James Molesworth

Oct. 17, 2005: JEAN-CLAUDE CHATELAIN Pouilly-Fumé Les Chailloux 2004 (91 points, $24)

A rapier, with fine acidity supporting lemon rind, straw, flint, smoke and stone notes. Long, fine finish. Very nice. Drink now through 2006. 1,665 cases made. —James Molesworth

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