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Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

The 2013 Bordeaux Barrels Diary: The Sun Shines on Pomerol

Charles Chevalier brought Lafite Rothschild and Rieussec to me, at the Right Bank's L'Evangile; I also tasted at Figeac and VCC

Posted: April 1, 2014  By James Molesworth

I finished my fourth day of 2013 Bordeaux barrel tasting visits with Château Lafite Rothschild, Rieussec, L'Evangile, Vieux Château Certan, Le Pin, Figeac and more. Here are my notes.

Blogs  :  James Laube's Wine Flights

The Economics of Terroir

Hudson Vineyard's eclectic mix of grapes earns well-deserved attention, but California Cabernet isn't going anywhere

Posted: March 31, 2014  By James Laube

Lee Hudson can grow pretty much anything he wants in his highly regarded Carneros vineyard, and he does. Albariño, Arneis, Greco, Ribolla Gialla, Riesling and Vermentino are all getting a chance there. But it's slow and go with those newbies, as they and other grapes are largely untested as marketable wines, at least on the scale many Napa wineries are accustomed to. Hudson expects they'll catch on. But for now, those plantings are more experimental than essential, underscoring the economics of terroir.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

The 2013 Bordeaux Barrels Diary: Clay or Gravel? Depends Who You Ask

Château Cheval-Blanc, La Fleur-Pétrus and Trotanoy express the Right Bank's diverse terroirs

Posted: March 31, 2014  By James Molesworth

I began my fourth day of 2013 Bordeaux barrel tasting visits at Château Cheval-Blanc, La Fleur-Pétrus, Trotanoy and more. Here are my notes.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

The 2013 Bordeaux Barrels Diary: A Vintage for a Slow Hand

Patience and mindfulness in the vineyard and the winery were key to making quality 2013s at Lynch Bages and Ducru-Beaucaillou

Posted: March 28, 2014  By James Molesworth

I began my third day of 2013 Bordeaux barrel tasting visits at Châteaus Lynch Bages and Ducru-Beaucaillou. Here are my notes.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

The 2013 Bordeaux Barrels Diary: The Future Is Now at Montrose

A brand-new chai and attention to detail in the vineyards at Montrose have this estate purring; Léoville Las Cases remains elite in St.-Julien

Posted: March 27, 2014  By James Molesworth

I began my third day of 2013 Bordeaux barrel tasting visits at Châteaus Montrose and Léoville Las Cases. Here are my notes.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

The 2013 Bordeaux Barrels Diary: Bringing Biodynamics to Palmer, Cautiously

Thomas Duroux puts quality ahead of his romantic vision for Château Palmer

Posted: March 26, 2014  By James Molesworth

I finished my second day of 2013 Bordeaux barrel tasting visits at Châteaus Palmer and Beau-Séjour-Bécot. Here are my notes.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

The 2013 Bordeaux Barrels Diary: An Early Candidate for Wine of the Vintage

Château Haut-Brion might have one of the best red Bordeauxs of 2013, but the white is the real stunner

Posted: March 25, 2014  By James Molesworth

I started my day at Domaine Clarence Dillon to taste the 2013s from first-growth Château Haut-Brion and its sister, La Mission Haut-Brion, as well as from Quintus. Haut-Brion may have made one of the best red wines of the vintage, but the real star in 2013 is the white.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Colorful Cuisine at Sydney's Sepia

And a classy tour of Australian wine's past, present and future

Posted: March 25, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Several Sydney insiders told me Sepia was the place to go for a great wine-pairing menu, so it was my first stop after arriving in Australia last week. Chef Martin Benn, once a protégé of Marco Pierre White in London, indulges a modernist bent since he left his post as chef de cuisine at Tetsuya's in 1999. His wife, Vicki Wild, once Tetsuya's personal assistant, brings warmth to the sharp-edged dining room on the ground floor of a Darling Harbour high-rise, and sommelier Rodney Setter has built up a broad and knowledgeably chosen international wine list of more than 1,100 selections, mostly current vintages although older wines, especially Bordeaux, Rhône and Australian Shiraz bottlings, scatter throughout.

Blogs  :  Bruce Sanderson Decanted

Crosstown Traffic, Part 2: Maison Alex Gambal

Beaune négociant Alex Gambal has a potentially outstanding lineup of 2012 red and white Burgundies

Posted: March 25, 2014  By Bruce Sanderson

Wine Spectator senior editor Bruce Sanderson has just returned from Burgundy, where he tasted the 2012 vintage. Here are his tasting notes and non-blind scores from his visit to Maison Alex Gambal.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

The 2013 Bordeaux Barrels Diary: To Margaux, on the Double

With no time to waste, I headed straight for Château Margaux when I arrived in Bordeaux, followed by a visit to Haut-Bailly

Posted: March 24, 2014  By James Molesworth

Plane, train, automobile. Got to Bordeaux on time, dropped my bags at the hotel and drove up to Château Margaux for the first of my 2013 Bordeaux barrel visits, followed by a stop at Château Haut-Bailly. Time is the world's most precious commodity, and I hate to waste it.

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

Free Beppe

How Italy’s new cru labeling rules stifle Barolo traditionalists

Posted: March 24, 2014  By Robert Camuto

Giuseppe Rinaldi has always danced to his own tune. A producer of great old-school, cask-fermented Barolos, Rinaldi has been guided by his own gut and local tradition—not others' rules or expectations.

Now, Italy's wine authorities have hemmed in the maestro and provocateur at the age of 65 with a new law dictating how producers blend and label designated crus. Since the death of his father 22 years ago, Rinaldi has bucked the modern, French-influenced trend of single-cru Barolos in favor of a traditional approach of blending from different vineyards.

Blogs  :  Mixed Case: Opinion and Advice

The Riddle of Riesling

Some wines can't be easily explained; just taste them and embrace their complexity

Posted: March 20, 2014  By Mitch Frank

If you're looking to simplify Riesling, to make it easy to understand, don't look to me. I visited Germany for the first time last month, and I hoped that a week in the Mosel, the Rheingau and the Rheinhessen—time spent strolling some of Riesling's most storied vineyards—would finally bring me clarity. Afterward, if someone asked me, "I want to try a great Riesling. Where should I start?" I could confidently reply with a list of wines that would teach them why Riesling is so special.

After a week in Germany, what I can say is that Riesling is a delicious and bewilderingly complex variety. And that's OK. That's what makes it an iconic grape.

Blogs  :  Exploring Wine with Tim Fish

California Wine Doesn’t Need Saving

It’s déjà vu all over again as the wines of the Golden State are once again the whipping boy

Posted: March 19, 2014  By Tim Fish

Here we go again. Every 10 or 20 years, the “Old World Wine Intelligentsia” tries to convince us that California wines are lousy.

Surely we’re not falling for this again, right? We’re bigger people after all these years, more secure about the quality of the wines. There’s no need for California to justify its place in the wine world.

Blogs  :  James Laube's Wine Flights

When Wine Becomes Work and Play

A quiet dinner with friends ends with a trip to the garage to bottle some homemade wine

Posted: March 19, 2014  By James Laube

Garage wine. I can't think of many vintners that haven't made it.

I thought of this Friday night after dining with some young friends and their 3-month-old daughter.

The proud new parents did it all: They shopped, cooked, popped, poured, served and cleaned, making it both a fun and breezy evening, where we covered a variety of topics. And afterward, there was homemade wine to be bottled.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

The Slippery Slope of Ripeness

It's not defined as, um, crisply as you might think

Posted: March 17, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Ripeness (and its kissing cousin, alcohol) seems to be the wine issue of the year. So I made it a point to attend winery group In Pursuit of Balance's panel discussion on the subject last week at its San Francisco confab and tasting.

The panel, led by London-based wine writer Jamie Goode, included Justin Willett of Tyler in Santa Barbara, Josh Jensen of Calera in Mt. Harlan, Wells Guthrie of Copaín in Anderson Valley and Katy Wilson of LaRue in Sonoma Coast. Each presented two wines, exploring just how much ripeness matters in determining a Pinot Noir's quality.

Blogs  :  Mixed Case: Opinion and Advice

How Serious Is Long Island About Sustainable Wine?

Region's new program gets green thumbs-up from outside expert

Posted: March 17, 2014  By Dana Nigro

When a group of winegrowers develops an eco-friendly certification program for their own region, one question you have to ask is: How serious are they? If the very people who have to live up to the goals are setting the goals, isn't there a possibility that they won't set the bar higher than they and their neighbors can easily reach? Does the certification hold everyone's feet to the fire or is it just a way to look good for the public?

That was a potential concern when four leading Long Island producers—Bedell Cellars, Shinn Estate, Channing Daughters and Martha Clara Vineyards—developed the first sustainability code and certification for vineyards on the East Coast in 2012 and launched the nonprofit Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing organization to oversee it. But if you didn't personally know the sincerity and commitment of people like Bedell winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich and Barbara Shinn, if you hadn't walked their vineyards with them, as I have, how sure could you be of what they were trying to do?

Blogs  :  Exploring Wine with Tim Fish

A Zinfandel Star on the Rise

The low profile of Miraflores belies the high quality of its wines

Posted: March 12, 2014  By Tim Fish

Secluded high in the mountains of the Sierra Foothills, Miraflores Winery has gone quietly about the business of making great Zinfandel for a decade now.

Foothills wineries often have trouble getting the attention they deserve in the California wine industry, and none are more deserving of a higher profile than Miraflores. Of the nine Zinfandels I've reviewed, seven received outstanding ratings.

Blogs  :  Bruce Sanderson Decanted

Crosstown Traffic, Part 1: Chanson Père & Fils

The 2012 Burgundy vintage at Chanson confirms this domaine's lineup is flying under the radar

Posted: March 11, 2014  By Bruce Sanderson

Wine Spectator senior editor Bruce Sanderson has just returned from Burgundy, where he tasted the 2012 vintage. Here are his tasting notes and non-blind scores from his visit to Domaine Chanson.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Drink What You Like

Bien sûr! say Le Bernardin's Eric Ripert and Aldo Sohm—even red Bordeaux with fish

Posted: March 11, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

When the perfectly named (for a sommelier) Aldo Sohm went to work at the classic New York French fish restaurant Le Bernardin seven years ago, one of his first special assignments was to select wines for chef Eric Ripert's birthday party.

The entrée was escolar with sauce Bearnaise. Sohm, unaware that Ripert famously loves to drink red Bordeaux with everything and damn the consequences, chose Hubert de Lignier Morey St-Denis Chaffots 2001, a deliciously fragrant and silky red Burgundy. "It was drinking perfect," said the affable sommelier, still with a tinge of his native Austria in his accent.

Ten minutes before the event started, however, the maître d' and two captains approached the new guy. "They started yelling, ‘Didn't they tell you chef only likes Bordeaux?'"

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

Avant-Garde Meets Tradition on the Plate

A visit with the Italian culinary master every wine connoisseur should know

Posted: March 10, 2014  By Robert Camuto

If there were a Nobel Prize for Parmigiano cheese, Massimo Bottura would certainly be its first laureate.

For more than 20 years, Bottura, Italy's most acclaimed modern chef, has worked to perfect a signature dish founded on the belief that this famous aged cheese made near his native Modena wasn't getting the respect it deserved. "Why did we only use this incredible cheese—this symbol of our land—just to grate on pasta?" The 50-year-old Bottura, clad in chef's jacket and jeans, is nearly shouting.

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