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Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

Clos des Papes Sets the Pace

Vincent Avril has Châteauneuf-du-Pape's flagship estate rolling

Posted: July 1, 2014  By James Molesworth

I finished off a day of visiting some of the town's youngest vignerons (Julien Barrot of Domaine La Barroche and Marie Giraud of Domaine Giraud) with a stop at Domaine de la Charbonnière, where Véronique Maret, just 30, assumed full control of the winemaking in 2012, after starting at the domaine alongside her father, Michel, in 2009.

Blogs  :  Bruce Sanderson Decanted

19 Vintages of Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne

A vertical tasting shows off 1990 to 2012, spanning Louis-Fabrice Latour’s tenure as head of Maison Latour

Posted: June 30, 2014  By Bruce Sanderson

With nearly 25 acres of estate vines in Corton-Charlemagne, almost one-third of the appellation, Louis Latour is an important producer. Along with Bonneau du Martray, Latour's Corton-Charlemagne is the version that Americans are most likely to find at restaurants and retail stores.

Louis-Fabrice Latour, president of Beaune-based Louis Latour, was in New York this month to present a vertical of 19 vintages of its Corton-Charlemagne from 2012 back to 1990.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

At Domaine de la Charbonnière, Another Young Vigneron Settles In

Véronique Maret hits the mark in her first solo vintage (though Dad is still hanging around)

Posted: June 30, 2014  By James Molesworth

I finished off a day of visiting some of the town's youngest vignerons (Julien Barrot of Domaine La Barroche and Marie Giraud of Domaine Giraud) with a stop at Domaine de la Charbonnière, where Véronique Maret, just 30, assumed full control of the winemaking in 2012, after starting at the domaine alongside her father, Michel, in 2009.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Wine Across America: The Movie

A scattered view of those who give it all up for wine

Posted: June 27, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

American Wine Story is a fascinating, gritty and ultimately bittersweet movie about the people who give up their day jobs to make wine in unexpected places across the United States. It focuses on the story of Brooks Wines, a small but fast-growing winery in Oregon founded in 1998, and the outpouring of support from others in the industry on the untimely death of its founder in 2004.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

Domaine Giraud, the Quiet Elite

Marie Giraud has steadily piloted her family domaine to the top

Posted: June 27, 2014  By James Molesworth

A semi-regular stop when I'm in the area, you can reference background on Domaine Giraud from my 2011, 2010, 2009 and 2008 blog notes.

Marie Giraud, along with her brother François, has steadily put this family domaine among the elite of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The pair is hands-on, managing their 62 acres (spread over a staggering 64 parcels) and produce on average 5,000 cases annually.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

At Domaine La Barroche, the Kid Settles In

With 10 vintages under his belt, Julien Barrot refines his style

Posted: June 26, 2014  By James Molesworth

When he first started at his family domaine, Julien Barrot (who previously guest blogged for us during a harvest) had short hair and admittedly put a lot of himself into his wines. Now, though still just a young 34, Barrot has let his locks grow long, and he feels he's learned a thing or two over his first 10 vintages at Domaine La Barroche in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

Bosquet des Papes: Updating the Old School

Nicolas Boiron refines his approach without losing his identity

Posted: June 25, 2014  By James Molesworth

On the Route d'Orange, just past Pierre Usseglio as you head by the Châteauneuf itself, sits the family-run Bosquet des Papes.

Nicolas Boiron is the fifth generation of his family to tend vines. After his predecessors started the estate and cobbled together various parcels, his grandfather began planting vines, and his father eventually bottled the domaine's first commercial production in 1966. Nicolas, 43, took over in 2004, and today he oversees the winemaking from the family's 79 acres of vines (covering 42 parcels), the majority in the northern end of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in top lieux-dits such as Pignan, Gardioles, Gardine and Mont-Redon. The majority of the domaine's vines are on clay, with some galets and sand and a very small amount on limestone. Total annual production stands at about 7,000 cases.

Blogs  :  James Laube's Wine Flights

Understanding How Wine Moves Around

Distribution is a major obstacle for most small vintners

Posted: June 24, 2014  By James Laube

If you want an unsullied perspective on perhaps the major challenge facing any vintner, it's worth reading Bill Foley's comments on the distribution system in one of last week's Shanken News Daily reports (one of Wine Spectator's sister publications).

While wineries can sell direct to consumers in many states, most at one level or another require a distributor to handle their wines in some markets. Foley realized that early on and owns a stake in a distribution company, Epic Wines. His company, Foley Family Wineries, accounts for about 20 percent of Epic's business.

Blogs  :  Kim Marcus' Prunings

Paul Hobbs Takes the Malbec Plunge in Cahors

California's master of Argentine Malbec is trying his hand at the ancient grape in its homeland

Posted: June 24, 2014  By Kim Marcus

Paul Hobbs can grin like a Cheshire cat, especially when he has a new project up his sleeve. The California vintner, who has consulting projects and partnerships in Argentina, Armenia, Canada, Chile and France, as well as his home state, is now getting ready to release his latest venture. It's a red made from Malbec, but it doesn't hail from Argentina, where the grape is a star and Hobbs has long made memorable versions.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

To the Rhône, to Taste the 2012s

What will the recently bottled 2012s from Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas have in store?

Posted: June 24, 2014  By James Molesworth

After a long overnight and ensuing day of planes, trains and automobiles, I'm back in France's Rhône Valley for the first time since my last visit in November 2013.

This time I'm in the Southern Rhône, and not just for the wines. The weather here in June is idyllic—warm and sunny during the day, but pleasantly cool at night.

Blogs  :  Bruce Sanderson Decanted

How Grand Will Chianti's New Gran Selezione Be?

Chianti's new top designation, Gran Selezione, debuts in New York

Posted: June 23, 2014  By Bruce Sanderson

The debut of Chianti Classico's new Gran Selezione designation in New York gave me the opportunity to taste more wines offered under the new category and speak with some of the producers behind the wines.

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

Tickling Pink

What you didn’t know—or even think—about rosé

Posted: June 23, 2014  By Robert Camuto

Wine Spectator contributing editor Robert Camuto visits the Center for Research and Experimentation on Rosé Wine in Provence, where researchers have studied how a rosé's hue of pink affects consumers' opinions of it.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Washington's 2011 Reds Test Theories on Ripeness

Cooler temperatures and wetter weather make for starker choices

Posted: June 20, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Ripeness and alcohol continue to polarize wine drinkers. The prevailing trend almost everywhere these days is toward more moderate levels of alcohol, but a highly vocal wing still finds too much alcohol in too many wines.

It's the sugar in the grapes, of course, that ferments into alcohol, so winegrowers are seeking ways to get enough ripeness to deliver pleasurable flavors without the sugar getting out of hand. Finding a cool climate can do it. But sometimes a cool vintage is a mixed blessing, as my recent experience sampling 2011 Washington reds demonstrates.

Blogs  :  James Laube's Wine Flights

Educated Guesses About a Vintage’s Future

There's no scientific method to predicting how a wine will age

Posted: June 19, 2014  By James Laube

The Educated Guess cuvée gets its name from the many best-guess scenarios that arise during the winemaking process, from when to pick the grapes to how long to age the wine in barrel, the bottom line being that there's no scientific formula for delivering the best wine that the owners of Roots Run Deep winery can. They use their knowledge, intuition and experience to make the best decisions for their wine, allowing too that at the end of the day it's still merely an educated guess.

Blogs  :  Exploring Wine with Tim Fish

Could Harvest Be Just Six Weeks Away in California?

Early signs of veraison point to an unusual start for crush in 2014

Posted: June 18, 2014  By Tim Fish

Take your vacation soon, California winemakers. Early signs of veraison are already upon us. Veraison—when grapes begin ripening, turn softer and change color—rarely starts this early. It usually doesn't get going until the Fourth of July.

Veraison is significant for many reasons, but it's a big indicator of when harvest could begin: about six weeks later is the general rule. A lot depends on the region, grape variety, how a vineyard is farmed and, of course, the weather, but it boggles the mind that harvest could begin before Aug. 1, and not just for sparkling wine.

Blogs  :  James Laube's Wine Flights

2012 California Pinot Noir: A Struggle for Ripeness

After tasting more than 400 California Pinot Noirs from the 2012 vintage, a profile takes shape

Posted: June 16, 2014  By James Laube

The 2011 and 2012 Pinot Noir harvests in California could hardly have been more different. In 2012, the weather was ideal from start to finish, but that's only part of the story. Despite superior weather, the wines are not head-and-shoulders above 2011, and the reason has much to do with yields.

Blogs  :  Bruce Sanderson Decanted

The Streets of San Francisco

Two evenings in the City by the Bay offer a sampling of its exciting and diverse dining possibilities at Acquerello and St. Vincent Tavern

Posted: June 13, 2014  By Bruce Sanderson

It wasn't quite the A to Z of dining in San Francisco, but a recent trip there provided an opportunity to visit Acquerello and St. Vincent Tavern and Wine Merchant, two very different restaurant concepts.

Blogs  :  Mixed Case: Opinion and Advice

Drink Two Glasses of Red and Call Me in the Morning

For years, there have been tantalizing clues that a little wine is good for us, but science is never simple

Posted: June 12, 2014  By Mitch Frank

Wine, consumed in reasonable amounts, can improve your health. Too much of it can kill you. (Isn't that true for most enjoyable things in life? Chocolate, sex, Game of Thrones ...)

America became the top wine-consuming nation last year, according to my number-crunching colleagues at Impact Databank. That's quite a twist for a country that once banned alcohol. One spark behind our increasing thirst is our growing belief that a little wine may be good for us. When 60 Minutes reported on the French Paradox in 1991, concluding that red wine was lowering French rates of heart disease, we started self-prescribing red wine overnight.

Blogs  :  Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

At Continuum, a Proud Legacy Carries On

Robert Mondavi's son Tim and granddaughter Carissa have established a new home base on Napa's Pritchard Hill

Posted: June 11, 2014  By James Molesworth

You can tell it's a family business at Continuum. Carissa Mondavi, 37, the newest generation of the storied vintner family, has no official title.

"I don't know how to answer that," she said when I asked her. "All I want to do is tell my dad's story and, in turn, my grandfather's," she added with a hint of wistful pride.

Blogs  :  Exploring Wine with Tim Fish

Wines That Sizzle All Summer Long

When the temperatures rise, put down the red and the white and think pink

Posted: June 11, 2014  By Tim Fish

I've been reviewing a lot of 2013 rosés from California in recent weeks. The vintage offers a fine opportunity for winemakers who know what they're doing. I'm stocking up, and I've put together a list. Here a few of my highlights.

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