Most of us can recall the wine and even the moment or situation when we tasted a wine that changed our perception and appreciation for the world’s greatest beverage.
For me it was a close encounter with a 1968 Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet. I’d been drinking wine for a couple of years and one day visited the Heitz Cellar tasting room in St. Helena, where the host poured the new releases, including the 1968 Heitz Napa Valley Cabernet, followed by the ’68 Martha’s. The differences between the two Cabernets – the dimension, richness, complexity and distinctive minty currant personality of Martha’s – could not have been more profound.
I’m also interested in wines that -- for lack of a better phrase -- changed the wine world. Whether or not they were the first of their kind, or truly unique, matters less in this exercise than the impact they had on either the market, or consumers.
Whoever “invented” Champagne is a perfect example, as is whoever created the first port or Vintage Port. The who is less important than how it influenced the wine industry.
Piero Antinori’s Tignanello added Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon to Tuscany’s anchor grape, Sangiovese, and effectively helped usher in the era of Super Tuscans reds. Antinori’s break with tradition and the elevation of quality of Tuscan-grown wines elevated our perception and appreciation of all Italian wines.
It’s easier for me to identify the modern milestones. Most old-world wines evolved over time, whereas most contemporary pioneering efforts are easier to identify.
David Lett’s Eyrie Vineyard Pinot Noir put Oregon on the map, while Sanford’s Sanford & Benedict Pinot did the same for Santa Barbara.
Sutter Home’s White Zinfandel created a new category of “pink” or “blush” wines.
Penfolds Grange, or Grange Hermitage, set a new quality standard for Australian Shiraz.
Blue Nun popularized Riesling, as did Georges Duboeuf with Beaujolais.
Chateau d'Yquem defined and still defines Sauternes, as Pétrus does Bordeaux’s Right Bank and Merlot.
Caymus Grace Family Cabernet ushered in the era of cult wines: small production, high-priced, single-vineyard Napa Cabernet made by a famous winery (Caymus) with a star winemaker (Chuck Wagner).
Randy Dunn gave Howell Mountain Cabernet an identity.
Turley reinvigorated and buffed up Napa Zinfandel by using single vineyards.
Robert Mondavi shone a light on Fumé Blanc.
Hanzell broke ground in Sonoma with Burgundian-inspired Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Pesquera introduced us to Ribera del Duero and Tempranillo.
Mas de Daumas Gassac gave Languedoc a buzz.
Phelps Insignia ignored varietal identification.
Acacia and Chateau St. Jean introduced handfuls of single-vineyard wines. Diamond Creek dissected its property into four site-specific, mountain-grown Cabernets.
Glen Ellen Proprietor's Reserve wines created “fighting varietals.”
That’s just a start. I’m thinking of additions and hoping you have a few.
Bryan So
CA — January 22, 2009 3:23pm ETBrian Buzzini
NorCal — January 22, 2009 3:32pm ETBrandon Redman
Seattle, WA — January 22, 2009 4:09pm ETJames Laube
Napa, CA — January 22, 2009 4:56pm ETHoyt Hill Jr
Nashville, TN — January 22, 2009 5:10pm ETRichard Robertson
January 22, 2009 5:12pm ETAndrew J Grotto
January 22, 2009 5:31pm ETSteve Ritchie
Atlanta, GA — January 22, 2009 6:00pm ETJordan Harris
Niagara, Ontario — January 22, 2009 6:05pm ETHarvey Steiman
San Francisco, CA — January 22, 2009 6:29pm ETCloudy Bay defined the possibilities of New Zealand's Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, now accepted as an iconic style.
New Zealand also led the world to acceptance of twist-offs on serious wines.
Eyrie proved that the New World could challenge the world's standards for Pinot Noir, but Ponzi set the more generous style that now prevails in Oregon.
Tom Samuelson
Seattl, WAe — January 22, 2009 7:22pm ETJames Laube
Napa, CA — January 22, 2009 8:42pm ETJames Laube
Napa, CA — January 22, 2009 8:46pm ETFred Brown
January 22, 2009 9:11pm ETJoe Downs
Vason Island, WA — January 22, 2009 11:14pm ETScott Oneil
UT — January 22, 2009 11:55pm ETMatt Scott
Honolulu HI — January 23, 2009 12:19am ETDavid Peters
Mission Viejo, CA — January 23, 2009 2:18am ETJordan Harris
Niagara, Ontario — January 23, 2009 10:08am ETJim Mccusker
Okemos, MI — January 23, 2009 10:29am ETAndrew Bernardo
Halifax, Nova Scotia — January 23, 2009 11:06am ETRe: Tuscany, do you think that it could be argued that far before Tig, that San Felice broke the mould by creating a "super-tuscan" in their Chianti estate by opting not for the red/white grape mix, but rather with 100% Sangiovese that led to the movement towards the Chianti Classicos we have today?
If so, then I put San Felice as one of my trend-setters in the Industry, that and the work they do with the University of Florence with regards to reclaiming ancient Italian varietals such as Pugnitello.
Andrew
Dennis D Bishop
Shelby Twp., MI, USA — January 23, 2009 11:19am ETJames Laube
Napa, CA — January 23, 2009 11:37am ETJames Laube
Napa, CA — January 23, 2009 12:19pm ETEd Fryer
Nashville, TN — January 23, 2009 12:40pm ETBryan So
CA — January 23, 2009 1:34pm ETAshley Potter
LA, — January 23, 2009 1:47pm ETAndrew Bernardo
Halifax, Nova Scotia — January 23, 2009 2:46pm ETNevertheless, Dennis is right, this particular blog has brought out some very interesting and educated answers.
James Laube
Napa, CA — January 23, 2009 2:59pm ETJames Suckling
— January 23, 2009 3:10pm ETJames Laube
Napa, CA — January 23, 2009 3:14pm ETJames Laube
Napa, CA — January 23, 2009 3:16pm ETJordan Harris
Niagara, Ontario — January 23, 2009 4:05pm ETAaron Mandel
Saint Louis — January 23, 2009 4:07pm ETJohnny Espinoza Esquivel
January 23, 2009 4:43pm ETI would add Pingus and L'Ermita from Alvaro Palacios. For sure there were Pesquera Janus or Vega Sicilia Unico. For me Pingus did what Le Pin did and that deserve attention. I would also take Argentina as a whole with Catena Zapata and Achaval Ferrer leading the way.
Andrew Alley
Burlington, NC — January 23, 2009 8:23pm ETAndrew J Walter
Sacramento,CA — January 23, 2009 9:34pm ETKenneth A Galloway
Paris, France — January 24, 2009 8:48am ETChad Bowman
Manhattan, KS — January 24, 2009 5:57pm ETDouglas Potoczak
North Ridgeville ,Ohio — January 24, 2009 8:57pm ETJames Shea
January 24, 2009 9:02pm ETFarhana Haque
Queens, NY — January 24, 2009 11:55pm ETNeil Gustafson
Chicago, IL — January 25, 2009 8:30am ETJordan Harris
Niagara, Ontario — January 26, 2009 9:21am ETVictor Perez
Utuado PR — January 26, 2009 12:03pm ETRob Lentini
Alexandria, Virginia — January 26, 2009 1:57pm ETJames Laube
Napa, CA — January 26, 2009 2:16pm ETTed A Hunt
Fort Lauderdale, Fl — January 26, 2009 5:01pm ETJohn Jorgenson
Seattle, — January 27, 2009 11:10am ETBernard Kruithof
San Antonio, Texas — February 7, 2009 1:53pm ET