Log In / Join Now

2008 harvest winemakers' blog

Tasting Wine from Barrels Pre-ML

Tim Perr is beginning to identify the characteristics of this year's wines.

Posted: Oct 13, 2008 11:02am ET

By Tim Perr

Posted by Tim Perr

This is now my fourth harvest in the wine business, and I still have a problem figuring out what I’m tasting and seeing in barrel this early on. As of today, we have about 100 barrels of wine more or less finished with primary fermentation (where all sugar is turned into alcohol by yeast). All of our barreled wines so far are from red varietals, mostly Pinot Noir. We have about 10 barrels of Zinfandel and Barbera. And, of course, none of the wine has started malolactic fermentation (ML), which will begin in the next month or so.

ML is the yeast-driven process where malic acid is converted into lactic acid. All of our red wines (and most of our white wines) will go through ML before they are bottled. Malic acid is commonly described as tasting like green apples. Lactic acid is commonly associated with creaminess in wines. To me, red wines taste weird prior to ML. The “malicky” taste and aroma masks even basic varietal elements so I personally can’t even tell the difference between a Pinot and a Cab at this stage.

However, I can distinguish some useful characteristics of the wine prior to ML.

First, color. While the wine is still very murky at this point, I can make out which wines will be relatively dark and which wines will be light. Second, I can begin to taste and smell some general components in the wine. For example, our Zinfandel is already showing a peppery taste. Blueberry flavors and aromas can be picked up in some of our Pinot barrels. I can also taste greenness coming from some of the less ripe lots. Third, I can feel tannin levels with my palate at this point. Finally, I can distinguish relative viscosity between barrels. That is, I can see which barrels are going to produce very concentrated wines and which are less concentrated.

So, while I really can’t distinguish overall quality yet, I can begin to see key features developing in the various wines. I recommend that anyone interested in the winemaking process taste pre-ML wines if they get a chance. I actually think it is very educational to taste wines at all stages from grape to finished wine. I look forward to someday tasting a pre-ML wine and being able to confidently say, “That’s a 95-point wine.”

Regards!
Tim

Brian Koller
October 15, 2008 12:22pm ET
Is Malic Acid a byproduct of primary fermentation or is it found naturally in the grape juice?
Timothy Perr
October 15, 2008 7:16pm ET
Malic acid is part of the natural acid profile of the fruit (as I understand it) when it comes into the winery. I don't believe that it is impacted by primary fermentation (but I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong). The typical acid we asscoaite with all wines is Tartaric acid. Tartaric is responsible for the bright, lively (and sometimes puckering) characteristics in wine.
Timothy Perr
October 16, 2008 10:52am ET
Brian, as I understand it, Mali Acid is just one of the natural acids found in grapes (i.e., not a result of primary fermentation). Tartaric acid is the other acid in grapes and gives structure, liveliness, a long finish and perhaps tartness to wines.
Brian Koller
October 16, 2008 12:46pm ET
Tim, Thanks for the info. I am a home winemaker and I am always trying to improve. Looks like I have more to learn.

Would you like to comment? Want to join or start a discussion?

Become a WineSpectator.com member and you can!
To protect the quality of our conversations, only members may submit comments. Member benefits include access to more than 315,000 reviews in our Wine Ratings Search; a first look at ratings in our Insider, Advance and Tasting Highlights; Value Wines; the Personal Wine List/My Cellar tool, hundreds of wine-friendly recipes and more.

WineRatings+ app: Download now for 340,000+ ratings.