Just got back from restasting the three first growths in Pauillac, and I noticed that I have a big spot of purple wine on my beige cords. Good lucking getting that out in the wash! I may as well throw them out now! It was sloppy spitting in the cellar of Mouton. But it was worth my cords to taste these wines again.
This is how I rank the Médoc first growths: Latour and Margaux (the two way ahead) followed by Lafite and Mouton. I am slightly disappointed with the latter, to be honest.
I also tasted another 60 wines in blind tastings in my hotel today, and I was super impressed. Although most of the wines were crus bourgeois, they were very good to excellent quality, which suggests what I have been writing before. The 2005 vintage is going to produce hundreds of very good to outstanding wines with all the great Bordeaux style and character that you could hope for. Sure there are going to be mega-buck trophy wines for all of us to drop hundreds of dollars on. But the majority of the good Bordeauxs are going to be reasonably priced. Trust me.
I spoke to Philippe Dambrine, manager of Cantemerle, about this when he dropped off some samples. and he agreed. He added: “It is really a homogenous year. Everything is very close to the same level of quality. You don’t see the differences between the different crus whether second or fifth. I think of a year like 1961, when the same was true.”
He told me a story about drinking a 1961 Greysac (the cru bourgeois he manages) with a famous French wine writer and serving it blind. “He told me that the wine was 1961 Latour,” he said, with a huge smile.
I told him I remember doing the same with a 1945 Senejac. I served it blind to my tasting group in London years ago, and they all said it was 1945 Latour.
Will this be the same with 2005? I wouldn’t like to say, but there is a very good chance, at least what I can tell from what I have tasted so far.
Guus Hateboer — Netherlands — March 23, 2006 2:05pm ET
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