Dinner in Bordeaux at négociant Pierre Lawton’s house was full of excitement. About a dozen vintners were there, from Jean-Guillaume Prats of Cos-d’Estournel to Jean-Hubert Delon of Léoville Las Cases. Even Frédéric Engerer of Latour showed up touting a magnum of white Burgundy. All of them seemed super confident. They all feel they have something very special in their cellars, and they are looking forward to showing the world. It’s like a sure thing.
Between glasses of 1999 Raveneau Chablis Butteaux, 2002 Hospice de Beaune Corton Vergennes, 2003 Mouton, 2000 Mouton, 1955 Margaux (which Prats brought from his late grandmother’s cellar in Paris) and 1998 Yquem, the Bordelais were speaking about how their wines were tasting at the moment.
“You can taste it for yourself,” said Engerer of Latour. “I don’t want to influence you.”
“My wine is tasting really well,” said Hubert de Bouard of Angelus. “The wine is rich and fruity with wonderful tannins and fresh acidity … Peynaud [the late, great winemaker of the region] said that if a wine is great a few months after the harvest. It will always be great. That is 2005.”
However, Jean-Luc Zuger, of Malescot-St.-Exupéry, said, “I find the wines really hard to taste right now. They are tight and not showing much.” He did say though that the district of Margaux, where his château is located, had made some exceptional wines.
Whether they are easy to taste or difficult to taste, I think there are going to be lots of exceptional wines today. I am tasting some of the Médoc wines that inspire heavy breathing in connoisseurs.
R Scott Hudson — March 20, 2006 6:49pm ET
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