Spices and chiles won't kill your wine, says Todd Smith, sommelier for Dosa, the outstanding southern Indian restaurants in San Francisco. But it helps to know why some wines perform best, as he demonstrated with wines made specially for Dosa.
Smith met me at the bar at Dosa Fillmore. His jaunty deep-purple narrow-brim fedora and gauged ears make him look more hipster than no-nonsense wine maven, but he understands the cuisine well and how wine works with it. He's been with Dosa since it opened in 2006 (and Mark Bright, now co-owner of Wine Spectator Grand Award–winning Saison, compiled the first lists). An avid cook, Smith pestered the chefs to learn what went into the food.
His wine list numbers slightly more than 100, ranging from a creamy Greek Assyrtiko to spicy Argentine Malbecs and a complex, aristocratic Italian Brunello. He seeks out small-scale wineries in Northern California for the list, and to make the wines for the restaurant's private label, named Sujātā. These wines strike me as clean, supple and generous in a deft frame.
So I put the Sujātā wines to the test. How would they perform with signature dishes?
We started with Chennai Chicken, cumin- and coriander-seasoned strips fried crisp, served with a yogurt dipping sauce; on another plate, Dahi Vida, lentil fritters topped with yogurt drizzled with tamarind and mint sauces. The burn is not intense.
The white blend, from the problematic 2011 vintage, wraps peach, pear and floral flavors around the spices, underlining without losing its own character. It remains refreshing, made with Riesling from Santa Lucia Highlands with Sauvignon Blanc from San Benito County.
A dosa, a thin platter-sized crêpe, comes with mixtures of various spice levels to fill it. The big challenge for wine is not the mildly spiced potato but sambar, a thick, spicy soup hot with chiles for dipping each bite.
"You have 38 different ingredients in one cup," Smith said. "The sauce is what affects the wine. I don't pair with the protein."
A rosé of Corvina grown in Lodi and Sangiovese in foothills near Yosemite National Park wafts delicate watermelon and pomegranate flavors and finishes dry but not steely. It's catnip for the gentle flavors of the yogurt dish, but the spicy sauces with the dosa create a loud, peppery cymbal crash on the tongue. The white blend is unfazed.
Dry wines will give you that clang of pepper, Smith explained, but lightly sweet wines such as demi-sec Chenin Blanc and off-dry German Rieslings soothe next to spicy food.
We tried the red, a 2011 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with an uttapam, a thicker pancake rolled with spicy ground lamb. The rich lamb highlights the 2011 red's gentle cherry flavors. The sambar brings out its soft, fuzzy tannins.
Bottom line: With Indian food of this caliber, try clean wines with their own character and enough generosity to stand up to the bright flavors. Bigger flavors deserve bigger wines, but watch out for tannins, which bring out bitter flavors in hot spices.
Fruit is always welcome. And a good guide doesn't hurt.