Log In / Join Now

stirring the lees with james molesworth

Clos des Papes Sets the Pace

Vincent Avril has Châteauneuf-du-Pape's flagship estate rolling
Photo by: James Molesworth
An overnight rainstorm refreshed the vineyards and vegetation at Clos des Papes.

Posted: Jul 1, 2014 11:00am ET

There's really no introduction needed here. Vincent Avril continues to help set the bar for Châteauneuf-du-Pape as a whole at Clos des Papes. The gentle vigneron earned Wine of the Year honors for his 2005 vintage. For more on this estate, there's considerable background info to be found in over several years' worth of blog notes, starting with my last visit here in 2011.

Avril was particularly enthused this morning, as the last drops of more than 2 inches of rain that had fallen overnight were lingering. 

"We had nothing from the end of March until today, and some vines were just beginning to show some stress," said Avril. "This was a perfect rain, the right amount, at the right time. I just got back from checking my parcels and there's nothing sitting on the surface—everything has already drained down to the roots and into the reserves."

Yields here continue to be extremely low; after averaging just 1.3 tons per acre from 2008 through 2012, Avril brought in just 1 ton per acre in 2013, due to a February frost that killed off some vines and then a bad flowering on the Grenache come spring.

"I've lost the equivalent of two vintages over the last six," rued Avril. "Still, I really like the '13. Sugar and phenolic maturity arrived at the same time, so the alcohol is less than 15 percent and the wine is in a Burgundian style, with a lot of finesse, which is what I prefer."

As for the 2012, Avril is even happier, comparing it to '10, '07 and '05 for it's longterm potential. When I raised my eyebrows at that claim—2010 is for me the benchmark vintage in the Rhône in recent memory—Avril pulled out bottles of each.

"In '12, phenolic ripeness came two weeks after sugar ripeness, so it's a vintage of 15 percent alcohol, more typical of Châteauneuf. But the tannins are very, very fine and very, very long. They're really the kind of tannins I want," said Avril.

The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a bit tight from the recent bottling, but it shows it's telltale hints of black tea, toasted spice and cassis, along with a coiled core of red licorice and singed mesquite. It's yet another very alluring and refined display of depth and finesse. The 2012 has sneaky density, though it's a hair less concentrated than the 2010 that we tasted alongside it. It's not nearly as flamboyant as the hyperrich 2007. But it's got as much complexity and length as either of those two vintages, which means it'll be a horserace.

Avril also makes a sensational white, among the appellation's elite. The 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape White delivers pure, high-toned acacia, green fig, elderflower and melon rind notes, and seems destined for long life, as this bottling has a great track record for aging. As it does, it often moves in and out of stages of varying richness and minerality. Right now the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape White is showing more richness—tight on the nose, but with a large core of acacia, creamed melon, macadamia nut and brioche notes. Both vintages look to continue the recent stretch of classic-quality whites from Clos des Papes.

Brian
American in Sydney —  July 2, 2014 6:39am ET
That was a great note on CDP, my favorite wine!!!
David Allen
Lufkin,Texas ,USA —  July 2, 2014 10:54am ET
Yes a great note . Have lots of Clos Des Papes for
me 2003 is best. So is 2005. I collect this producer
as has given me top notch tastings even Current
bottles. But the 2003 is best so far. Even better
than 2007. Have Magnums of 2003 and 2005 and 2006.
Appreciate the note thanks.

Would you like to comment? Want to join or start a discussion?

Become a WineSpectator.com member and you can!
To protect the quality of our conversations, only members may submit comments. Member benefits include access to more than 315,000 reviews in our Wine Ratings Search; a first look at ratings in our Insider, Advance and Tasting Highlights; Value Wines; the Personal Wine List/My Cellar tool, hundreds of wine-friendly recipes and more.
Most Recent Posts
Jul 31, 2017
Still on Top
Jul 28, 2017
On His Own
Jul 26, 2017
The Hunt for Value

WineRatings+ app: Download now for 340,000+ ratings.