Log In / Join Now

harvey steiman at large

Renewing the Original Microbrew

The ongoing story of New Albion Ale, the beer that started it all
Photo by: David Yellen

Posted: Nov 18, 2013 10:05am ET

These days we take American craft beers and microbrews for granted. They're everywhere. Even at places other than baseball parks, I have been known to sip a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Samuel Adams Boston Lager or Pyramid Hefeweizen with dinner when the wine offerings don't wow me.

The choices we have today started with an idiosyncratic microbrewery in Sonoma County, a malty drop amidst a sea of wine.

The inexorable rise in hand-crafted wines (not beers) was just picking up the pace when I started in 1977 as food-and-wine editor of the San Francisco Examiner. It would be years before distinctive, flavorful, character-driven beers, which can be as fascinating as wine, would start to draw attention.

The hot new thing in the beer world 35 years ago was light beer. Big brewers resolutely aimed for weak flavors and were systematically gobbling up the few remaining small regional breweries. Getting a fresh glass of characterful beer imported from Europe was a rare treat. The only craft brewery of any note was San Francisco's Anchor, maker of Anchor Steam. Anchor itself had only recently emerged from obscurity, and years of poor brewing. The new owner, Fritz Maytag, also owned the York Creek Vineyard in Napa Valley.

About then I stumbled across a bottle of New Albion Ale, a cloudy, defiantly bitter brew. I liked it. I tracked it to Sonoma, in the heart of California wine country, where a former optical engineer named Jack McAuliffe had launched the first new small brewery in America since Prohibition. A former Navy machinist, he literally welded it together from spare parts, repurposed equipment and old Coca-Cola syrup drums for aging barrels. I wrote a long feature story for my Examiner food section, describing McAuliffe's efforts to make rich and distinctive beers: the flagship bottle-conditioned ale, a stout, a porter, and the occasional barleywine.

No one knew it at the time, but this was the birth of the craft beer revolution, and I was among the earliest food and wine writers to write about it. Audacity of Hops (Chicago Review Press, $20), a new and excellent history of craft beers in America by Tom Acitelli, brought back those memories. I was especially pleased to see McAuliffe get his due as the trailblazer he was.

I did a web search for New Albion and discovered that Boston Beer Company, which brews Samuel Adams Boston Lager, one of the most successful craft beers ever, had acquired the New Albion trademark some years ago. In 2012, recognizing the debt they owe McAuliffe, the owners of Boston Beer made the first bottles of New Albion Ale in 30 years, with Jack supervising the recipe and getting all the profits. That one batch contained more beer than New Albion had turned out in its entire six-year existence. It went on sale in January 2013 and sold out by July.

Generously, Boston Beer founder Jim Koch signed over future rights to New Albion to McAuliffe, who had given up on the beer business. He now lives in Arkansas.

"It's been a journey, getting him to realize how much the craft beer world realized it owed him," said his daughter, Renée DeLuca, a former broadcast journalist who lives near Cleveland and writes a blog about beer called the Brewer's Daughter. When I could not find a copy of my old story on him, I e-mailed her to see if by chance her dad's old files might have it. (The Examiner was sold some years ago, its archives now available only on microfilm at libraries.)

"Jack didn't save a thing, of course," she wrote back, "but I have articles dating back to the '70s and '80s that were in my grandfather's collection." The .pdf she sent, my story dated Oct. 18, 1978, outlined my visit to Sonoma to spend the day with McAuliffe and his business partner, Suzy Stern. One quote jumped out at me. Noting his proximity to all those grapevines, he made this observation: "Beer is an urban product. Wine is agricultural, and there's an art to winemaking. Brewing is technological. Engineers make beer; poets make wine."

The following year, wine writer Frank Prial dropped by to write an enthusiastic piece for the New York Times. New Albion got coverage in national magazines. But it was too early in the game. Craft beer, with its strong, often bitter flavors, still puzzled most American beer drinkers, accustomed to swigging weaker stuff. By 1982, the financial realities of being a lone pioneer finally caught up with him.

The craft beer revolution, however, was under way. A new venture, Hopland Brewing (now the Mendocino Brewing Company) bought McAuliffe's old brewing equipment and hired him (and his assistant brewer) to make the beer.

To bring things full circle, McAuliffe's daughter is close to a deal with Mendocino Brewing to make New Albion Ale and resuscitate the brand. Now in his 60s, having lost the use of one arm in an automobile accident and uninterested in getting back to brewing, Jack had passed along the rights to Renée.

"I offered it to Jim Koch at Boston first," she said as we sipped American-brewed hefeweizen and Belgian white ale at the Monk's Kettle, a serious beer bar in San Francisco. "But he said no." Doing this in Mendocino, she said, brings things around full circle.

Nowadays there are hundreds of craft beers on the shelves and on tap. Even the big companies are bottling beers that play off interest in craft beers, with brands such as Blue Moon (made by Coors), Shock Top (InBev) and Budweiser American Ale, an echo of the big vintners' response to the explosion in boutique wineries. That's a lot for little New Albion to compete with, but at least there are a few of us who can't wait to sample some.

Brandon Redman
Brandon R., Seattle, WA —  November 18, 2013 11:26am ET
Nice to see a writeup about beer, Harvey! I am a huge fan of the craft beer revolution, as I'm sure many are, and we're spoiled up here in the PacNW with so many great examples. I'm still a little bit confused, however, when you refer to Sam Adams, Blue Moon, Shock Top, etc. as "craft beers." Those particular beers are very widely distributed and produced in very large quantities. Wouldn't craft brews be more small-scale?
Harvey Steiman
San Francisco —  November 18, 2013 12:05pm ET
There's a distinction to be made between craft beers, a definition based on the quality of the product, and microbreweries, a definition based on cases produced.

Sam Adams is a craft beer, a product of Boston Brewing, which started small and was and is a brewer of craft beers. It has grown into a relatively large brand (though not nearly as big as Budweiser or Coors), following much the same trajectory as Anchor did. Coors (with Blue Moon) and InBev (with Shock Top) are, as I carefully noted, are big companies that created their own brands to ride the coattails of the burgeoning craft beer movement.

For the record, I am fine with that. The more people drink good beer, the better it will be for all craft brewers.
Noah Sevillia
Santa Cruz, California —  November 18, 2013 6:06pm ET
Great to see an article about New Albion. I would like to point out that your first paragraph might be a little misleading. Pyramid is no longer designated as a craft brewery by the Brewers Association. They were bought by FIFCO in 2012.

One might argue that the term "microbrewery" and "craft Beer" are loose terms. The Brewers Association recently changed the criteria for a craft brewery when the likes of Boston Beer Co. and other notables were close to exceeding the annual barrels produced cap.
Harvey Steiman
San Francisco —  November 18, 2013 7:34pm ET
Fair enough, Noah. It escaped my notice that Pyramid, which definitely started as a small brewery in Washington, had been gobbled up in 2012 by (what I just learned) is a Costa Rican company.

If the craft beer industry wants to exclude producers of serious, flavorful, complex beers such as Samuel Adams Boston Lager and Pyramid Hefeweizen because they're doing too well, then we need another category to set them apart from the insipid stuff that floods most liquor stores and tailgate parties.
Andrew J Walter
Sacramento, CA —  November 20, 2013 12:24am ET
My first experience with craft beer was Sierra Nevada Pale Ale in 1991. I had just moved to California and to impress a girl on a rafting trip...I brought a whole case of Bud Light. She took one look at those cans and said something like.."I am NOT going to drink that s***!". After we got home, we went to the local supermarket and bought a 6 pack of Pale Ale...what a revalation! And while the girl is long gone....I've never touched crappy, mass produced beer again. many thanks to Mr McAuliffe for starting this all.
Carlos H Aranguren
Caracas, Venezuela —  November 25, 2013 9:03pm ET
Great article!

These guys inspired my cousin and now we have a microbrewery producing Pale Ale in Venezuela, where people are starting to like the taste.

Would you like to comment? Want to join or start a discussion?

Become a WineSpectator.com member and you can!
To protect the quality of our conversations, only members may submit comments. Member benefits include access to more than 315,000 reviews in our Wine Ratings Search; a first look at ratings in our Insider, Advance and Tasting Highlights; Value Wines; the Personal Wine List/My Cellar tool, hundreds of wine-friendly recipes and more.
Most Recent Posts

WineRatings+ app: Download now for 340,000+ ratings.