
My grandparents owned a corner grocery store back in Indiana when I was growing up and my grandfather Sam was an old-fashioned butcher, cutting meat by hand on a wood butcher block table. Every Monday, a new side of beef arrived and he would painstakingly whittle it down to the various roasts and cuts and grind his own hamburger.
If there were any leftover steaks by noon Sunday--yes, he worked 6½ days a week--he would call my dad and say, “Light the grill!” That didn’t happen a lot, but somehow he managed to always have leftovers on Labor Day Weekend. So when I was 7 or 8, I was accustomed to eating good and incredibly fresh steak. The fact that my dad tended to cook the life out of them is another blog post altogether.
If those memories weren’t enough, the Sept. 30, Wine Spectator put me in the mood for this weekend with the cover: “All About Beef: A Comprehensive Guide.”
The issue offers plenty of advice on what wines to drink with dozens of recipes from top chefs, but I wanted to add by two cents with an emphasis on value and availability. (In case you can’t afford to splurge on both great wine and great steak.)
Two of my favorite Cabernets in this category are Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 2009 (91 points, $27) and Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 2008 (88, $18). The Beringer is more full-bodied, but the Sebastiani is polished and fleshy. If you’re looking for easygoing, fruit-driven Merlots, try Tangley Oaks Merlot Napa Valley Lot #10 2009 (88, $15) or Discoveries Merlot California 2009 (85, $10).
It’s tough to beat Argentina right now when it comes to widely available, tasty reds selling at a fair price. Two of my go-to reds are Bodega Norton Malbec Mendoza Reserva 2009 (89, $18) and Alamos Malbec Mendoza Selección 2009 (87, $20), and both are gutsy yet rich and ready to drink with beef.
Finally, if you prefer something more fruity and zesty with your steak, I think of two wines: California Zinfandel and Spanish Grenache. Often they go better with all the salads and pastas and other crazy Labor Day accoutrements, too. A current Zin favorite is Edmeades Mendocino County 2009 (88, $20), which is jammy and full of flavor. One of the best bargains in the category is the Altovinum Evodia Garnacha Calatayud 2010, which retails for $10 but often sells for less. Then there’s the always-dependable Bodegas Borsao Garnacha Campo de Borja Tres Picos, and the 2010 (90, $17) is one of the best in recent years.
If you can’t find a particular wine, a local retailer can suggest a similar bottle. Do you have a go-to wine when you grill steak? Or maybe there’s something else on your grill this holiday weekend. Care to share?
John Kmiecik — Chicago, IL — August 29, 2012 2:17pm ET
Robert White — Novato, CA — August 29, 2012 3:48pm ET
Mountain Cabernets are my favorite steak wine: Robert Craig, Outpost, O'Shaughnessy, Ladera, Cade, etc. They're nice and big but nuanced enough that they won't run over the steak.
Ribs: Luna Canto and Shafer Relentless are perfect for my tri-wood smoked baby backs with guava, tequilla, lime BBQ sauce.
Burgers: Outpost Howell Mountain Grenache or Zin, Robert Craig Mt. George Cuvee or Howell Zin on the high end and La Vieille Ferme or Artezin Zin on the low end.
Russell Quong — Sunnyvale, CA — August 29, 2012 10:52pm ET
I like really fruit forward wines with steak or beef.
I unintentionally had the Beringer 2009 Knight's Valley twice in the past and it was drinking very well.
Some of my favorite big reds are the Catena 2010 Malbec and the Schild 2009 Barossa Shiraz, which reminds of a red fruit zin due to its overt ripeness. Both are at my local Costco.
I've also like the Southern Rhone and Languedoc grenache based wines. You alluded to this in a previous column, that some of these can be similar to a Zin, with lots of ripe, sweet red and black fruit with minimal acidity or tannins. I like the Cercius 2009, the Lafage 2010 Cuvee Nicholas, and the Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras. The first two were under $15 locally.
Stephen Martin — Paso Robles CA — August 30, 2012 8:54am ET
Crazy as it may sound my wife and I love a Rose Cava such as Poema with grilled hamburgers! Of couse living in Paso Robles will find us spending Labor Day in 100 degree heat so the cool cava has additional benefits.
Peter Vangsness — Springfield, MA — August 31, 2012 3:51pm ET
Tim,
You gotta love those Chilean Carmeneres - under $10 and ready to drink!!!
Giancarlo Ortega — Washington DC — September 3, 2012 10:34pm ET
I had a 2009 Domaine Jaume Vinsobres Altitude 420 that was incredible with a rich bacon burger. Found my perfect pairing for burgers.
Ray Ondrejech — San Luis Obispo, CA — September 4, 2012 5:24pm ET
My wife and I have travelled well and are planning our next vacation -- Argentina. Beef and Malbec!!!
William Matarese — Florida, USA — September 5, 2012 2:00pm ET
For those willing to try something a bit different, I highly recommend the Aldo & Riccardo Seghesio Langhe Bouquet. It's a very unusual combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Nebbiolo that is very, very rich and just heavenly when paired with a juicy steak or prime rib.
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Tim, I agree with you on the Altovinum Evodia Garnacha. You can find it for $8 or less and it is perfect for grilling!