2009: The Vintage California Merlot Redeemed Itself

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The vintage looks promising in a range of styles

Posted: Aug 15, 2012 11:00am ET

My annual California Merlot report won't hit print for a few months, but I've been tasting the wines at our Napa office all summer. So far I'm impressed with the 2009s. It's a particularly good year for high-end Napa Merlot, but there's plenty of value to be found as well.

I'm convinced that 2009 will be the redemption vintage for Merlot. During the Merlot boom of the early 1990s, growers planted it everywhere except highway medians. A lot of it turned out to be undrinkable. After a while, as with Pinot Noir, winemakers figured out where Merlot grew well, and how to manage the crop size to maximize quality and minimize thin and weedy flavors.

2009 might be the year they've figured it out. The growing season was nearly perfect, with a warm and dry spring and a moderate, uneventful summer. Savvy Merlot producers had picked before the rain arrived in mid-October, a bit earlier than usual.

As a result, I've tasted successful wines in a range of styles and prices. There are the rich and opulent wines for those who desire a bit of showmanship, but skeptics of that distinctly Californian style will find many elegant and crisp Merlots with structure and backbone and shout, "Hallelujah, Merlot is back!"

And then there are the best buys. I've previously noted Bogle Merlot California 2009 (88, $10) and Robert Mondavi Merlot Napa Valley 2009 (88, $23) but on the horizon is my review of Alexander Valley Merlot Wetzel Family Estate 2009, a very good wine for an excellent price.

I've already reviewed three 2009s with scores of 94 on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale, and each combines the best of both styles: Pahlmeyer Merlot Napa Valley ($75), Realm The Tempest Napa Valley ($75) and Switchback Ridge Merlot Napa Valley Peterson Family Vineyard ($56).

None of those is a stranger to the top of the list, but there's plenty of competition. Look for future reviews of 2009 Merlots in a similar style from O'Brien Estate and Carter. The classic structure of Old World Merlot can be found in the likes of Chappellet Napa Valley 2009 (90, $38) and the 2009s from Seavey, Calluna and St. Supery, which will soon have reviews online and in print.

I'll continue to taste Merlots in the coming weeks and will reserve my initial vintage review of the 2009s until my official report this fall. A lot can change as I taste the final few dozen wines.

Have you tasted many 2009 California Merlots? What's your take on the vintage so far?

Member comments 8 comment(s)

Peter Vangsness — Springfield, MA — August 15, 2012 12:15pm ET

Tim,

Are most wines you've tasted blended with Cabernet to achieve that structure usually missing in CA merlot??

Brett R Turner — Hawthorn Woods, IL — August 15, 2012 12:18pm ET

Tim - Have you tasted the 2009 Markham Merlot? Been a clear favorite of ours. They've been on a good run the last few years and the 2009s are now in stores here in the Chicago area.

Mark Lyon — Sonoma, CA; USA — August 15, 2012 12:49pm ET

2009 was an excellent year for California Merlot due to cooler growing conditions and ripening prior to the mid-October deluge. I also think Merlot will benefit Cabernet as a blender, as is the case in Bordeaux with vintages where cooler, wetting vintages are a challenge to ripen Cabernet. Finally, I'm seeing Merlot wines sales increasing slightly in the marketplace; especially when priced below Cabernets.

Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA — August 15, 2012 3:08pm ET

Thanks for the comments everyone.

Peter, adding Cabernet varies a great deal. It often depends on the vintage, the vineyard source and the winemaker's stylistic choice. Adding a touch of structure is sometimes needed but you can also sacrifice supple texture and increase the harsh tannins by going overboard. Mark makes a good point about using Cab in a cooler year.

Brett, I have been a big fan of the Markham Merlots the past few vintages, plus they're great values.

Colonial Spirits — Acton, MA, USA — August 15, 2012 7:37pm ET

Hey Tim
As far as Merlot goes I never left the band wagon. I still believe that Merlot has great potential in California, and now Washington, and that the real issue at hand is the lack of quality Merlot in the "House Wine" market. One of my favorites, although WS doens't agree with me, happens to be Clos du Val. I like the fact that they produce a less ripe style that displays a bit more tar and smoke and less blackberry pie. What do you think?

Terry Brown — Daphne, AL — August 16, 2012 7:07am ET

Since the writer from Colonial Spirits mentioned Washington, I have to say that we've had terrific response with Columbia Crest Merlot Horse Heaven Hills H3. I've taken to pouring a taste blind, so prevalent is the local disdain for Merlot, and developed a lot of converts. With what Tim is reporting, it sounds like Merlot may no longer be a dirty word.

Denny Kleber — Charlotte NC — August 16, 2012 9:18am ET

I'll have to admit that it's hard for me to spend more than $15 on a Cali merlot mainly because like Terry I am a big fan of the Columbia Crest H3 merlot which I can get at Costco for $11 and the last few years have produced excellent ratings from WS which I completely agree with.

I also agree with Brett about the Markham merlot. I have a few bottles of the 2008 and it is wonderful. I have not tried the 09 but based on Brett's comments I'm going to try it as well.

Ramona Peterson — Chicago, Ill. USA — August 27, 2012 8:52pm ET

Markham merlot 08 was showing well. Boutique stores I work with in Chicago area started seeing a marked increase in new world Merlot purchases about a year and a half ago and still seems to be rolling on, with a good 09 vintage from California, this may be a trend

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