Too little too late. That's one way to look at Sonoma County's new Fort Ross-Seaview appellation, approved by the feds late last year. It separates what most refer to as the "True Sonoma Coast"—from the Pacific to the edge of the redwoods—from the sprawling appellation that bears the Sonoma Coast name. But achieving notoriety for Fort Ross-Seaview may present a difficult challenge, particularly if the area's better-known wineries, such as Marcassin, Peter Michael and Flowers, choose not to use it. Marketing typically trumps appellations and the cachet Sonoma Coast presently owns among wine lovers will be difficult to overcome.
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