On a visit to the Yalumba winery on Thursday, after tasting through the next-to-arrive vintages of the winery's familiar wines, chief winemaker Brian Walsh showed me three bottlings I hadn't seen before. "Single-site Shiraz," they were called, one labeled Lyndoch, another Eden Valley, the other Light Pass. I thought, yes, this is cool. Someone in Barossa is focusing on the distinctions to be made from specific sites in various parts of the valley.
Next day at First Drop, as I tasted through the 2010 and 2011 bottlings (to try to get a handle on the two vintages in Australia, and specifically the Barossa), the winery's Fat of the Land series reminded me that Yalumba's approach was not unique.
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