Some years ago, when Randy Dunn was about to release his first Cabernet from Howell Mountain, he offered to show me the wine, the package, label and closure. The bright red wax capsule that topped the 1979 vintage particularly pleased him; each bottle was hand-dipped in hot wax. It was striking. I liked the wine and the label. The label is still unchanged. But I've come to dislike the wax capsule almost as much as I loathe corks.
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