exploring wine with tim fish

You Like That Wine? Are You Blind?

Kick back and relax, blind tasting is your friend
Posted: Sep 21, 2011 10:25am ET

I've been doing blind tastings for 20 years and have only made a fool of myself a handful of times. That's a fine average for any wine lover. Tasting blind isn't for the faint of heart—it's wine tasting without a net—but it keeps you honest and, with any luck, a bit humble.

Did I mention that it's potentially a whole lot of fun too? Because there are really two kinds of blind tasting—professional and social. 

Professional would be the sort of system we use at Wine Spectator. We follow a strict set of guidelines backed by studies that have shown that a taster's judgment is strongly influenced by label and price. We try to remove potential bias by using what the industry calls "single-blind" tastings. A taster knows a few details about the wines—the region, vintage and the main grape—but nothing else. We review and rate more than 15,000 wines a year this way.

You'll find those who will argue against blind tasting. The usual complaint is that it isn't fair to judge some wines without the proper context. How can you judge an old-style, tannic and earthy Barolo, they'll argue, without knowing the track record of the producer? There is a grain of truth in that argument, but there's also a lot of covering your ass. It's like saying you can't understand the complexities of a math problem without looking at the answer first.

I cut my blind-tasting teeth on California wine and still remember my first time in Bordeaux at the annual en primeur barrel tastings of the new vintage. It was 1999, a cool and rainy year for Bordeaux, very un-California, but somehow I made the adjustment. That's what experienced tasters do.

Social blind tastings are another thing altogether. If you're young or new to wine, there's really not a better or cheaper way to learn about wine.

It's simple. Invite a few friends over and set a theme: Cabernet Sauvignon perhaps, or Chardonnays under $25 or Côtes du Rhône. Have each person bring a bottle in a brown bag and there you have it. Maybe you simply taste them and unveil the wines and talk about them, or you could rank them on a scale and pick an overall favorite. It's up to you, but a little competition and drama can add to the evening.

The important thing is that you learn to taste wines with limited bias and you better understand the wines you like, and why. Enjoying wine is what it's all about.

What are your experiences with blind wine tastings? What have you learned about wine and yourself?

Member comments   22 comment(s)

Stewart Lancaster — beaver,pa —  September 21, 2011 11:30am ET

we have a wine group and blind taste usually weekly. We double blind taste-no specific region or type of wine is known. We do tell if it is a single or multi grape wine. Talk about humbling, but loads of fun. We are always trying to stump the others.


Adam Lee — Santa Rosa, CA —  September 21, 2011 1:05pm ET

Many moons ago, after our first or second release of Pinot Noir, good friends of ours (and at the time, home winemaker) Mike & Kendall Officer (now owners of Carlisle) invited us over to their home for dinner. We had a blast, with part of the evening being a blind Pinot Noir tasting. Little did we know that our Siduri Pinot Noir was in the line-up. If I recall correctly, I rated it last and Dianna rated it next to last. Suddenly, I wasn't sure that the evening was all that fun! -- But making an ass out of yourself happens occasionally to everyone during a blind tasting.

Amazingly enough, we are still good friends with the Officers after that evening (I never really blamed Kendall, it was all Mike's fault....Just kidding). But I still owe him one!

Adam Lee
Siduri Wines


Brian Gritt — Charlotte, NC —  September 21, 2011 1:57pm ET

I find tasting blind with social wine drinkers is a great way to remove the negative preconceptions as well. Ever hear someone say "I only like _______"? I've seen many wine minds opened by way of the blind tasting.


John Kmiecik — Chicago, IL —  September 21, 2011 3:12pm ET

That is funny Adam.....and thanks for fessing up too!


Thomas Matthews — New York City —  September 21, 2011 5:23pm ET

At a recent "sommelier shoot-out" at Restaurant Daniel (http://www.winespectator.com/wwdn/show/id/45697), chef Boulut gave his top somms two wines to taste blind, and then they gave him one. Result: Boulud 1, somms 0! You just never know what will happen.


Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA —  September 21, 2011 6:00pm ET

Good comments all, but Adam, I wouldn't put it past Mike to switch the juice on you. He's a sneaky one.


Mike Officer — Santa Rosa, CA —  September 21, 2011 6:51pm ET

Moi? Sneaky? Never! ;-) Seriously, I'm amazed Adam still talks to me after all the horrible things I said about the wine that night. Taught me that when other winemakers are present and you're tasting blind, while it's okay to be honest, choose your words carefully!


Walt Rooney — Seattle, Washington —  September 21, 2011 9:18pm ET

Thanks Tim,

Sometimes I feel like it's a losing battle convincing people to give less weight to unblinded tasting results. As for the reasons, you hit the nail on the head, as covering your tail as a critic can translate into 'saving your job'.

Along these lines, there are 2 recent articles that support your points very well. I recommend Leonard Mlodinow's WSJ article in 2009 as some of the science you are referring to. Professor Mlodinow is a Caltech physicist and author of 'Drunkard's Walk, How Randomness Rules Our Lives', and a wine drinker. It's easy reading and here is the link:

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703683804574533840282653628.html.

Another article recently in the NY Times addresses a different point, valid even for blind tasters, about decision fatigue. Well worth reading as well:

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703683804574533840282653628.html.

I hope you enjoy these links as they are relevant, valid, and in my opinion, irrefutable evidence to lend more weight to blinded tasting outcomes.

walt rooney


John Jorgenson — Seattle, —  September 21, 2011 9:31pm ET

I haven’t been a part of a wine tasting group for over a year (since I retired and moved to California), but I’ve had many a great experiences with friends and fellow wine lovers over the years. We’ve had as many as 14 California cabernets in a single blind tasting and had one tasting where the only stipulation was Washington red and one of the guys fooled us all by making his own “spaghetti red” from tomatoes. Having a few characters in your tasting group can really help the tastings remain fun and lighthearted. Sounds like Adam and Mike have discovered that too and I trust Tim has opportunity outside the “professional” environment where he can occasionally toss in a ringer or a stump and have a little fun.
As Tim stated in the article, this is a great way (and one of the most fun) to increase your knowledge and pleasure and indeed your humility. I’d add one caveat, that you should remove the foil, as we have had people identify a wine (knowing the single blind standards of main variety and region) by identifying the producers foil cap.

I’d also like to tell you about the tastings we hosted that was the most fun and the most educational and humbling.
On a few occasions we printed up maps of wine regions around the world and had at least two representatives for each variety that was in the tasting as well as two varieties that could be represented by each region: i.e. a map of Bordeaux and a map of Napa with both cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the tasting. We might also add a map of Walla Walla and add a cab-franc to complicate the decision. Doing a white wine tasting we might have a couple sauvignon blanc selections and a couple pinot gris bottles with a dry riesling and maps of several appropriate wine regions from across the globe. The individual that matched the most wines to their proper location was rewarded with something, but the real prize was the knowledge gained and the experience shared. Wine Spectators “What Am I Tasting” archives can provide the basics for getting started with something like this, but after one or two experiences, wine lovers will no doubt give it a go on their own.
The bottom line in any blind tasting venue is to have a good time . . . . So go for it!


Daniel Sherer — Healdsburg, CA, USA —  September 22, 2011 9:53am ET

Blind tastings can be fun and you’re right, Tim…humbling. Once, four of us, all professionals in the industry, were drinking 4 top Calif Cabs and talking about the various attributes of each one with comments like…”wow, lots of mint in this one” and “dark black berries and chocolate in this one”. Then one by one, we left the room, the others rotated the four glasses around, and then you came back, re-tasted and identified. All of a sudden that “lots of mint” was less obvious. Out of the four of us, only one [not me] correctly identified all four. It’s not as easy as it sounds and rather humbling, given the fact we were so demonstrative with our attributes when we knew the wines as we were tasting them. The following month we did it with Burgundy and were all much better as we paid more attention.


Eric Swanson — Westlake —  September 22, 2011 10:16am ET

Tim,

In your 20 years blind tasting wines, any specific blind tastings that come to mind that were surprising or shocking to you? And when you're blind tasting, how closely do you feel price of the wine correlates to your rating or opinion of the wine?

In my opinion, one of the best things about blind tastings is it takes price out of the equation. Too often people associate price with quality - blind tastings can often lead to the unexpected values of the wine world.

Thanks.


Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA —  September 22, 2011 11:06am ET

Eric, there are surprises from time to time. A few years ago Schramsberg staged a blind tasting of high end California sparkling wine and Champagne. The California wines showed surprisingly well. Bordeaux v Napa Cabernet is old had but CA bubbly v Champagne is rarely done for some reason. There were some top Bay Area sommeliers at that tasting and they had never compared the CA v Champagne blind and they were surprised.

As for price, when we blind taste for reviews, we never know the price, so I agree it's good to take it out of the equation. I was at a blind tasting years ago and a California winemaker went on and on about how Burgundian a CA Pinot tasted. Turned out it was Turning Leaf.


Mark — Colorado —  September 22, 2011 6:48pm ET

We have a wine group and do a monthly social, but competitive, blind tasting. The host picks the grape and region and cooks a meal representative of that region or that complements the grape.

Everyone brings TWO of the same bottle with a $40 per bottle limit. We blind taste each wine along with dinner, score them and debate our favorites, and then do the reveal. The person who brings the top rated wine takes home all the second bottles!

I don't think in the two years that we've done this the most expensive bottle has won more than once or twice and the least expensive has won several times.


Jonathan Lawrence — somewhere in the world —  September 23, 2011 9:23am ET

Tim, I think your suggestion that blind tasting is for those "young or new to wine" is spot-on here. Having done lots of blind tasting early on, I've had my fill. I think the point of wine is pleasure, and I don't find that engaging so much of the left brain disposes one to that. If it's a competitive guessing game that's desired, I'd rather play charades.


David Williams — Carlsbad, CA —  September 23, 2011 7:25pm ET

I learned wine tasting in class from Eddie Osterland. He taught us to blind taste. My wife and I do this by me bagging them while she's out of the room, and then her pouring them. It has been very educational for us and prevents us from being swayed by price or rating.


Ron Christner — New Orleans Louisiana, USA —  September 27, 2011 4:30pm ET

I would be interested in the results of a blind tasting of Sonoma and Napa Cabernets and Merlots by Wine Spectator. There are never very many highly rated
Cabernet's or especially Merlot's in Wine Spectator. It would be very enlightening to see how they ranked and if the critics could pick out the differences by varietal and region if it was done totally blind





Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA —  September 27, 2011 5:42pm ET

Ron, as for Merlot, it is a difficult and expensive grape to grow well and there's still a lot of Merlot vineyards planted in unsuitable areas in California, so high scores really depend on the vintage and producer.

As for not many highly rated Cabernets, that stumps me. Cabernet, particularly Napa Cabernet, is among our favorite wines and my colleague James Laube frequently reviews Cabernets 95+ on our 100-point scale.


Andrew J Grotto — Washington, DC —  September 28, 2011 12:25am ET

Tim, a question about your recent tasting of California sparklers, and some editorializing about a pet peeve of mine concerning NV sparklers:

Did any of the producers provide you with any information about how to distinguish the specific bottlings you sampled in your tasting from earlier bottlings that, by definition, are different from what you reviewed?

And now for the editorializing: I love sparkling wine, but it really drives me nuts that most producers of NV sparkling wine, from California to Champagne, use the "NV" label to avoid providing any further information about the specific wine that's in the bottle in front of me. The wine could have been disgorged 2 years ago and has been cooling its heels in a wholesaler's warehouse ever since, or it could be the one that's profiled in your article. The truth is, they're different wines, no matter what the producer says about the virtues of blending to achieve a "house style."

(Very sorry for the cross-post, but there was no comment section for your recent tasting of California sparklers.)


Ed Gilmore — Corona, CA —  September 29, 2011 1:11am ET

I own a popular franchise family restaurant that incorporates a small wine list. I have put together my own extensive wine menu requiring alot of different wines without proper storage conditions. Currently I've been storing them on their side in a closet at approx. 75 degrees and I'm starting to lose older bottles. These wines are all drinkables and some may stay with me for several years or more. What's the best way to store the wine? Would putting them in my walk-in refrigerator work better?


Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA —  September 29, 2011 9:59am ET

Andrew, it's true there are some pitfalls with non-vintage wines. We make it clear to producers that we expect to taste new wines, not retaste old ones.


Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA —  September 29, 2011 10:04am ET

Ed, you face a common problem. 75 degrees is too warm for red wine, both as a serving temperature and for storage. Optimal storage temperature is 55 degrees although 60 degrees is fine as long as you're not keeping the wine for decades. Best serving temperature for reds is 65 degrees or a little less. Hope that helps.


Matt Anders — New jersey —  October 14, 2011 12:46pm ET

Our favorite spin on the social blind tasting format is to print out a page with the WS tasting notes, price, and score for each wine, and have them guess which wine goes with which write-up. Fun times.


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