harvey steiman at large

Mixed Impressions of RM Seafood Las Vegas

Good food, but the Las Vegas hard-sell gets wearisome
Posted: Aug 26, 2011 1:16pm ET

When Rick Moonen opened RM Seafood in Las Vegas in 2005, he was like a breath of fresh air. The chef did not extend an existing restaurant empire. Instead he moved from New York, where his Oceana was an insider's favorite for seafood, settled in Las Vegas, and introduced the idea of sustainable, beautifully prepared fresh seafood to the desert.

I love the food, particularly the appetizers. We had a pristine sashimi of fluke, slices of of the fish folded with razor-thin lemon slices into a delicate flower. The vibe is different today, however, and I am not sure I like how it has changed.

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