exploring wine with tim fish

What W Goes with the B and the L and the T?

When it comes to pairing wine with BLTs, it’s all about the fun
Posted: Aug 17, 2011 10:15am ET

I have a short list of complaints about living in Sonoma County. It ain’t cheap would be at the top, and political correctness often frolics amok in these parts, but all of that pales compared to the tomato issue.

You can’t grow them here, at least not easily. Even in a warm year, it’s nearly Labor Day before you can make a decent bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich. In the Midwest where I grew up, BLTs were as vital to summer as lightning bugs and the Indianapolis 500.

I gave up growing tomatoes this year after 10 years of spotty crops. What’s good for Pinot Noir is not so hot for tomatoes. Sonoma is just too cool and foggy most summers to make it worth my while, especially for tasty heirlooms like Brandywine and Old German.

Well, the kids go back to school this week and the farmers markets are bringing in a few Early Girls from the Central Valley, so it’s finally BLT time. My colleague Jennifer Fiedler’s 8 & $20 recipe put me in the mood, and over the weekend I got into an entertaining discussion on Twitter about the best wines to drink with a BLT.

BLTs for me are in the same wine-pairing pool as a hamburger with all the fixings. You can’t simply be guided by one ingredient; there’s a potpourri of flavors and textures to consider, from sweet and acidic to smoky and creamy.

A crisp white wine might go great with the tomato but not the rest. I prefer a fruit-forward red with good acidity such as a medium-bodied Italian like the Tenuta Monteti Toscana Caburnio 2007 ($18) or Zenato Valpolicella Superiore Ripassa 2007 ($28). A light-bodied Zinfandel would do the trick too, something like Sebastiani Sonoma County 2008 ($15) or Graziano Mendocino 2007 ($17).

For me, though, the best choices are dry, zesty rosés made from Rhône grapes such as Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, which typically have enough personality to match the B yet are crisp and fruity enough for the L and the T.

Think Domaine de la Citadelle Lubéron Rosé Les Artèmes 2010 ($20) or Tablas Creek Rosé Paso Robles 2010 ($27) and Azur Dry Rosé California 2010 ($26).

What are some of your favorite wines with BLTs?

Member comments   8 comment(s)

Daniel Sherer — Healdsburg, CA, USA —  August 18, 2011 9:54am ET

Tim…usually when I read your articles my thirst quench takes over my day and I run to either my favorite store or my own humble cellar after work. Today I am already consumed with finding a good BLT for lunch or stopping at the market on my way home to buy all the ingredients, myself. As for wine, I would think the Hey Mambo Kinky Pink with its Pinot Noir should work well. I may find out tonight!


Eric P Perramond — Colorado Springs, CO —  August 18, 2011 2:09pm ET

I find that any simple Riesling will do with BLTs; not heavy enough to overwhelm the veg, and light sweetness rings off the bacon's saltiness nicely. I'll have to try some of those other pairings, Tim.


Chris A Elerick — Orlando, FL —  August 18, 2011 3:56pm ET

i'm making the spectator recipe tonight with an '08 sonoma county pinot per the recipe's pairing suggestion. i may be tempted to open another bottle based on your suggestions and compare the two. why not?! :)


Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA —  August 18, 2011 4:48pm ET

Thanks for the comments all. Just mentioning BLTs gets you jonesing for one. Chris, let us know how the recipe turns out.


Berg Atkinson — Alexandria, VA —  August 18, 2011 7:20pm ET

Good timing on this article! For our wine night last weekend we did BLTs with Kosta Browne, Pali, and Red Car single vineyard Pinots...Absolutely fantastic!


Christopher J Ascher — Shorewood, MN —  August 18, 2011 9:27pm ET

Tim:

How about a salmon BLT with a glass of DuMOL pinot noir. Hmm, might have just figured out dinner for Saturday evening.


Chris A Elerick — Orlando, FL —  August 19, 2011 10:29am ET

the recipe turned out well, but i made the mayo about 45 minutes in advance, so by the time i was ready to plate it had lost its creaminess and begun to separate. so if anyone is going to try the recipe, make the mayo immediately before serving.

for the wines, the pinot was the clear winner. the '09 lake county gsm rose was great on its own, but the salinity and minerality brought out those aspects of the bacon and amplified the dijon in the mayo. the pinot was the clear winner, playing its sweetness against the bacon very well and poking through the fresh flavors of the ingredients in a satisfying way. all in all, a great night!


Frank Ostini — Buellton, CA —  August 21, 2011 11:11am ET

My Hitching Post team served a breadfree BLT with SRB at the Santa Rita Hills "Wine & Fire" last week, with HP chef Brad Lettau's cured & smoked natural Salmon Creek bacon,crunchy iceberg, Finley Farms cherry tomatoes and scarlet runner beans, dressed with 1000 Island, all wrapped in a lettuce leaf so you ate it like a taco. We pulled out all the stops and served it with a mushroom/onion/beef burger slider and fries. Went well with all the SRH Pinots.

But each season I look forward to the GREAT BLT at Cafe Quakenbush in Los Alamos, CA, 45 minutes north of Santa Barbara. This is a "Must Stop" along the scenic Hwy. 101 through the Central Coast between LA and SF.


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