If the topic of the year is rising alcohol levels in today's wines, as it appears to be, Wells Guthrie of Copaín is probably the poster boy for the lower-alcohol crowd. Several years ago he had an epiphany: After making a reputation for big, bold, muscular Syrahs and broad, fleshy Pinot Noirs, he decided to change. And he discovered that it's not necessarily the what, but the where, that matters in making good wines with lower alcohol levels.
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