What's That Pink Stuff Doing in My Wineglass?
There's no reason for Americans to fear dry rosé
Posted: Jun 22, 2011 11:00am ET
America got the wrong idea about rosé wines back in the 1980s, with the rise of white Zinfandel. I’m not sure who’s more resistant to rosés: newly serious drinkers mistakenly trying to live down their “sweet” wine days or devoted collectors who believe pink wine is just too damn wimpy.
Rosés are not supposed to be pink soda pop: They should be dry and refreshing, with a hint of flowers in the aroma and fresh fruits like strawberry, watermelon or raspberry—something to enjoy on a warm summer day without overthinking it. Your mood, I’m convinced, is crucial to their appreciation. Drinking a rosé when you’re feeling cranky or on a cold, rainy night is a waste of time.
After a cool and soggy spring in Northern California extended well into June, dry rosé has been on my mind. The temperatures are finally in the high 80s, and I just tasted a lively Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare Central Coast 2010 ($15) for inspiration. So far, so good.
But I have to admit that rosé can be a crapshoot, with styles that vary widely, depending on the region, vintage, which varieties are used and how it is produced. An understanding of the basics can help you find one you'll enjoy.
Southern France is the traditional home for rosé; the one from Domaine Tempier in Bandol is perhaps the most world’s most emulated pink—a beautiful wine, rich and complex yet delicate. But most regions with toasty warm summers make some type of “blush” or “pink” wine, including Argentina, Australia, California, Chile, Italy, South Africa and Spain.
Rosés can be made with any red grape, although some work better than others. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, for example, can make perfectly decent blush wines, but they’ve never inspired me. Zinfandel can be a challenge because of its natural sweetness. However, Pinot Noir can produce lovely, aromatic and delicate pinks.
My favorite rosés are made from Rhône varieties such as Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, the varieties typically used in French regions such as Bandol, Tavel, Provence and Côtes du Rhône. I like the extra layer of spice and smokiness that those grapes bring to the wine. Rhône reds are also a popular choice for rosé from California; from there, I look for a handful of consistently good producers such as Quivira, Tablas Creek, Beckman, Ampelos, Cline and Bedrock.
The attractive pink or salmon color of the wine comes from the grape skins. Whether the wine grapes are red or white, the juice is always white. While red wines macerate for extended periods with the skins, rosé has only a brief and fleeting affair, enough to pick up a faint hue and additional aromas and flavors.
Quite often rosé is a byproduct. To intensify the flavors of a red wine, winemakers will “bleed off” or drain away some juice after a brief maceration. That leftover wine becomes rosé. The problem is that leftover rosé is often not particularly interesting.
In California, as well as France and Italy, blush wines are too often soft, sweet and dull because the grapes were simply too ripe. The top producers make a point of making rosé, harvesting the grapes earlier than for red wine, in an effort to retain a crisp, fresh acidity.
Finding the best wines can be a challenge. Some rosés from Europe arrive by the thousands of cases in the U.S., but most of the California pinks are made in modest quantities, of a few hundred cases, and many are sold only through winery tasting rooms.
My best advice is to seek out a savvy local retailer. During the summer months, most will stock a handful of rosés they like. Restaurants too are increasingly featuring rosés by the glass, which is a good opportunity for a test drive. (WineSpectator.com members can check out recent reviews of rosés from around the world, with full tasting notes and scores, here in our Wine Ratings Search.)
Do you like rosé, and why or why not? Do you have a favorite?
Tim, I love wines that are pink or called Rose and I always have, and a great suggestion Tim to seek out the good retailer. Dry and satisfying and try and find those that are made in the traditional way. Saignee is OK but the others always tend to have more texture and more length...kind of a "starter" wine for us red wine drinkers. I like Bonny Doon, Mulderbosch, Robert Oatley, and Domaine Ott and others...Cheers to the first week of summer and go out and find a couple Roses.