Value Wines Give California a Big Headache

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Some varietals refuse to cooperate at a low retail price

Posted: Mar 16, 2011 11:00am ET

I wish I could drink the good stuff every night, but that's just not the way it works. Even at Mouton-Rothschild, I figure, they hold off until the weekend. Well, that's what I try to tell myself anyway.

The problem is, I'm like a rich divorcée. I've grown accustomed to a certain lifestyle, and I crave great wine on Tuesday nights, not just weekends and holidays. But like almost everyone, I'll settle for a tasty wine at a decent price during the week.

Argentina and Spain make it easy, but the selection of good California reds selling for $8 to $15 is limited. I'll spare you a thesis on the economics behind that, but I have been curious about one thing: Which red variety is the biggest challenge when it comes to making good-quality value wines in California?

So I turned to the source, the winemakers and vintners who reliably produce good wines at a decent price: winemakers Dennis Martin of Fetzer, Mark Lyon of Sebastiani, Paul Clifton of Hahn and Cameron Hughes.

The consensus was fairly clear: Pinot Noir is the toughest, followed closely by Merlot. I'm not entirely surprised. As the lead taster for California Merlot, I'm lucky if I can recommend two or three a year in the $8 to $15 price range, and Bigfoot is easier to find than good Pinots selling for under $12. The real question then is why?

"The biggest challenge is keeping varietal character at that price point," Clifton said of Pinot Noir. A big part of the problem, Hughes explained, is that Pinot requires a cool climate and that's a "narrow bandwidth" in California. "And where it performs well, it is typically low-yielding and expensive to farm."

Good Pinot, Lyon said, is also more expensive in the winery, requiring small fermentors, quality French oak barrels and careful handling. It's far more cost-effective to blend in a little Syrah and use oak chips, but there's a catch. "Most other varieties, it is possible to blend other varieties into them and still keep the character," said Clifton. "Pinot Noir is another animal."

Fetzer solved the problem by turning to southern France for its $6 to $8 Pinot, so Martin believes that Merlot is a much greater challenge. Most of the California Merlot in that price range comes from vineyards in Lodi and other hot Central Valley regions, while grapes for $12 to $15 Merlots often come from more temperate Paso Robles.

"They [Central Valley grapes] just don't get physiologically ripe," Martin said. "You struggle to get good color and, no matter how ripe we get them from a sugar standpoint, they always taste green and underdeveloped."

That combo of baked cherries and green veggies is not something I look for in a Merlot, no matter how cheap it is. Even if a winery dresses it up with sweet oak and other makeup, it's hard to miss.

And yet there is hope. I can recommend a handful of current-release Merlots and Pinots from California in the $15-and-under price range.

Aquinas Pinot Noir Napa Valley 2009 (85 points, $15) is full-bodied with a touch of mint. Heron Pinot Noir California 2009 (85, $14) has crisp cherry and herb notes, and Castle Rock Pinot Noir Carneros 2008 (84, $14) is fresh and bright with candied cherry and cranberry flavors.

Both the Mirassou Merlot California 2007 (86, $12) and Cycles Gladiator Merlot California 2007 (84, $10) offer soft black cherry and spicy herb notes.

Do you know of other good value California Pinot Noirs and Merlots?

Member comments 30 comment(s)

Richard Scholtz — Austin, TX — March 16, 2011 1:31pm ET

I'm a fan of the Castle Rock Pinot, as it's my "pinot when I don't want to drink the expensive stuff." It's not going to knock your socks off, but it's serviceable when the food demands you drink pinot.

Andrew J Walter — Sacramento, CA — March 16, 2011 2:49pm ET

Trader Joes has some decent pinots from the first growth pinot areas (RRV, SLH, Dundee Hills, etc) for under $12 both under their label and others (the Picket Fence and Sebastapol Hills -- both $9.99 are particularly good deals; the TJs reserve 2008 Carneros was also very good but its gone now). One wonders where they are getting their juice?

Jay J Cooke — Ripon CA — March 16, 2011 3:52pm ET

I have been a big follower of JL blogs. Nice to know that someone else is concerned about weekday wines at a good price. Weekend wines are no problem. Ancient Peaks is making some very good affordable wine. Their 08 Merlot for $10 at Costco is excellent. Keep up the good blogs, they are informative & enjoyable.
Jay

Denny Kleber — Charlotte NC — March 16, 2011 4:14pm ET

Villa San Juliet just north of Paso Robles made a great 2007 merlot that I was able to get in North Carolina for $12.99.

Also, Donati Family Vineyards made a 2006 merlot from San Benito County that I was able to purchase from their website in a close out for $10. It was and still is fantastic.

Joseph Kane — Austin — March 16, 2011 6:15pm ET

There aren't any. Look at the wines you suggested...84-86 pointers. At that price and quality level you aren't buying for Terroir. Why not jog up to Washington and Oregon and get solid 90+ pointers for 10-12 dollars. Columbia Crest Grand Estates or Horse Heaven Hills is nice, as is Chat. Ste. Michelle Indian Wells. Both are cheap, and both are wonderful wines at their price point.

Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA — March 16, 2011 6:36pm ET

Thanks for the comments and suggestions so far. And Joseph its hard to argue that Grand Estates is tough competition, and although the Indian Wells wines run a few dollars more they are usually more than worth the price.

Ron Wagner — Sherwood, OR — March 16, 2011 6:40pm ET

The best Pinot Noir under 10.00 right now is a brand from Oregon called Rascal and retails for 6.99 a bottle (no joke, 6.99). I believe it's 100% Pinot Noir and is the only Pinot under 10.00 that I've tried that really retains the varietal character of a Pinot Noir.

Louis Robichaux — Highland Village, Texas — March 16, 2011 7:01pm ET

I can clearly understand why it's worth searching high and low for good, inexpensive Pinot Nior. The end result is worth the effort. But, why waste the time on Merlot? To what end? There are simply too many good, value Cabs, Syrahs and Petite Sirahs from CA and WA to warrant wasting time and effort on Merlot. If you like good Merlot, wait until the weekend and open a bottle of Pride, Shafer or Robert Foley.

Brian Loring — Lompoc, CA — March 16, 2011 7:09pm ET

Tim - Weekends kinda take care of themselves... it's Mon-Wed nights that could use a really nice bottle of wine to perk them up a bit ;)

Given how few places it grows well, and the lower yields required, there simply won't ever be that much great value Cali Pinot. Sure, you'll find some occassionally - especially during difficult economic times when some wineries are forced to bulk out good juice at a loss just to keep cash flowing. But the thing is, it's not sustainable. There's really no way to make a decent Cali Pinot and sell it for less than ~$20 retail - and still stay in business.

Our neighbors, Pali Wine Company, have started creating a bunch of ~$20 Pinots that are really nice. Siduri also makes some really nice Pinots at that price point. But I guarantee you they're not padding the bank account with those wines.

Maybe save those extra dollars for Cali Pinot, and go for value from places like Spain.

Joe-janelle Becerra — Burlingame, CA — March 16, 2011 8:13pm ET

Although the sale is coming to a close, BevMo has the 2006 Gloria Ferrer Carneros Pinot Noir for $10.02 when you buy two. I like Castle Rock but at this price the G.F. is a great value. I posted this on goodcheapvino.com

Michael Bennett — Houston, TX — March 16, 2011 8:51pm ET

I've given up on truly pleasing Pinot in the under $15 price point. I don't think it exists. The good news is you can get a Cali Pinot for under $50 that will knock socks off (see e.g. Loring's) whereas knock-your-socks-off Cali Cabs will frequently cost you $60, $70, or much, much more.

For reliably good under $15 Merlot, I agree with Joseph, head to Washington and don't look back. If you want an impressive under $15 Cali wine on a weeknight my answer is Zin, Zin, Zin.

Andrew J Grotto — Washington, DC — March 16, 2011 10:25pm ET

I absolutely loved the 2008 Redtree California Pinot Noir. $8 a bottle, and it tasted like real Pinot Noir - a very good one, in fact! (JL gave it 88 points.) But this was a current release in the summer of 2009, and it took some effort to track it down. I haven' tried the 2009 vintage, and WS hasn't reviewed it.

Don Rauba — Schaumburg, IL — March 16, 2011 10:49pm ET

I actually rather like Sebastiani's Pinot Noir, roughly $15, depending on the retailer. Not to mention their Cab and their Zin, too... don't remember ever trying their Merlot.

Homer Cox — Warrenton, VA — March 17, 2011 7:28am ET

For price and quality CC H3 cab and merlot is a better comparison to Indian Wells than Grand Estates, even though I consider GE the best buy out there.

Paul M Hummel — Chicago, — March 17, 2011 7:39am ET

Just a thank you for an informative blog that engendered useful responses. Must admit we aren't usually happy with under $20.00 pinot.

Really looking to Argentina and Chile for wines in the under $15.00 category (not pinot).

Michael Charles Wines — Warren, OH USA — March 17, 2011 12:02pm ET

Paul, there are a few cheap South American Pinot's worth a try: Gouguenheim from Mendoza for only $10, not complex but good fruit; and Ventisdquero from Chile, a little smokier for around $14.
And back to the very beginning -- my best-selling $10 California Merlot is McManis. Lots of value in that line. Their Pinot is also quite varietally correct for $15.

Vince Liotta — Elmhurst Illinois — March 17, 2011 6:24pm ET

Tim

Logically, you are absolutely correct. Pinot Noir should be the most difficult to find value at that price point. In practice, however, at our stores, Pinot Noir seems to offer some of the best values right now, especially in the $12 to $16 range. Certainly, better than Cabernet, Merlot (especially), Zinfandel and Syrah. The latter 2 disappointingly not delivering the value one would expect from them.

I find the mmost challenging factor in finding value--or even quality at any price point--in California Pinot Noir is finding ones with good varietal character. The Aquinas, which you offer here has it, a trademark earthiness to balance and add complexity to the ripe, soft fruit. Many others, although perhaps pleasant to drink, do not have this character.

Tom

Kc Tucker — Escondido, CA USA — March 17, 2011 8:06pm ET

If the consumer shops at a wine shop where the folks actually taste the wine, they're gonna find a good deal on something. We often get closeouts on some well-known wines with a significant mark down. At supermarkets, TJ's, BevMo, you're left on your own.

Jim Kern
Holiday Wine Cellar
Escondido, CA

Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA — March 17, 2011 8:29pm ET

Great suggestions all. Thanks for sharing. Under $15 Pinots and Merlot from CA are rare and often generic. The hunt continues.

Russell Quong — Sunnyvale, CA, USA — March 18, 2011 3:22am ET

I had no idea CA Merlot was so challenging at the value price points. Probably because like others, I get a ton of WA Merlot (and Cab and Syrah ... well you get the picture). Hmmm, come to think of it, my last bottle of CA Merlot was probably a 2004 Sebastiani.

Though, last week, I had a bottle of the Kirkland (Costco) Napa Meritage 2007 for $12(?) which is 59% Merlot, 38% CabSauv and 3% CabFranc. I liked the red and black fruit with an oaky, sweet spice finish that tastes like Merlot. I'd give it 90 pts and will get more. And I did a Kirkland N Cal Merlot a few years back that I really liked, but this isn't a regular bottling.

Homer Cox — Warrenton, VA — March 18, 2011 8:28am ET

Russel, we bought a case of the Kirkland 2007 Meritage recently and had another bottle last weekend. Good stuff and it didn't last long at the Costco we shop.

Ari Glazer — Florida — March 18, 2011 11:12am ET

I simply choose not to drink inexpensive (in this range anyway) pinot. Why bother. Even the best one you can find will be outperformed by other varietals at this price point.

Gavin Mchugh — Nor Cal — March 19, 2011 6:36pm ET

Great topic, Tim. I've been pleasantly surprised with 09 Castle Rock
Mendocino Pinot Noir. It's readily available at Trader Joes. Picked up a couple bottles today for $12.

Gavin Mchugh — Nor Cal — March 19, 2011 6:41pm ET

Great topic, Tim. I've been pleasantly surprised with 09 Castle Rock
Mendocino Pinot Noir. It's readily available at Trader Joes. Picked up a couple bottles today for $12.

Ronald A Fazio Jr — Richmond Va — March 20, 2011 9:16am ET

I say life is too short... not to drink Great wine all the time.. for people who truly are passionate/appreciate Great wine! Just Saying!

Philip A Chauche — Germantown, MD — March 20, 2011 2:48pm ET

In answer to Andrew's question regarding the RedTree Pinot Noir, the 2009 is not as good as the 2008. I had to bring some back from Denver last year, but was happy to find that Total Beverage in McLain, VA carries it now. Here's hoping the 2010's return to form.

I sent an e-mail to Cecchetti (the vintner) last year to inquire about the Pinot Noir content. Roy Cecchtti answered saying that it was 95% Pinot Noir. Again, that was the 2008.

Kimberly Eakin — Roanoke, VA — March 20, 2011 6:33pm ET

I own a retail wine shop, Wine Gourmet, in Roanoke, VA. As Certified Specialists of Wine, we take a certain pride in stocking and our customers expect varietally correct wines. Currently, we have Angeline Pinot Noir and Redtree Pinot Noir as sound representatives of Pinot Noir from California priced well below $15.00.

Finding tasty varietal wines under $15.00 is challenging, but it separates us from our BIG BOX competitors.

Dan Merry — Los Angeles, Florida, and D.C. — March 20, 2011 11:42pm ET

The original topic was CA values, but as the masses agreed, the better values end up being elsewhere. Don't miss international opportunities like Norton Malbec Reserve 2007 listed as $20 but on sale in L.A. at the Wine House for $16, maybe cheaper at VONs, Pavilions, Safeway with their %30 off sale, %40 if you buy 6 mix-n-match. Great value in CA? Very few, but for stellar stuff at reasonable prices try Seghesio Zin and Zaca Mesa anything.

Mark Lyon — Sonoma, CA; USA — March 21, 2011 12:31am ET

I know that Washington Merlot has been WS scoring better than Caifornia Merlot at the same price point; but that doesn't mean one should write it off. First off; there's a stylistic difference. Second; one can't just rely on wine scores all the time; although it does separate the truly average and below par examples. Sometimes a great challenge is worth an endeavor. Remember; it wasn't but 10+ years ago that it was generally considered that California could never achieve world class stature for their Pinots! My prediction is that value California Merlot and their blends will improve because vintners won't be pressured to hit certain case quantity targets. Finally, Merlot blends I ultimately predict will eclipse Merlot as a varietal. When you don't have to be 75% or greater; Merlot will improve! Look at Bordeaux; few are greater than 75% in the Right Bank

Tim Fish — Santa Rosa, CA — March 21, 2011 12:41am ET

Excellent discussion. Thanks to everyone for joining in.

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