Fill 'er Up and Keep the Change
Napa's Wine Garage sets a good value example
Posted: Mar 2, 2011 11:00am ET
Napa Valley
is not an outlet mall for wine lovers. The last place to find a bargain on Napa
wines is in Napa Valley. I'm still prone to sticker shock and I work here.
But that's
just the way it works. Vintners don't want to see their wines marked down in
their hometown and they seldom cut prices in tasting rooms because their
distributors get in a huff. And there's certainly no competition from discount
warehouses anywhere nearby.
So I was
intrigued when Todd Miller opened the Wine Garage in 2003. "There weren't any
wine shops that catered to locals," Miller said. "They were all selling trophy
wines." Renovating an old Calistoga gas station, Miller created a funky little
retail store in which no wine sells for more than $25 a bottle. He also makes
his own wine, and for kicks sells a jug wine that he dispenses from a gas
station-like nozzle. It sells for $30.
Miller
thought he was filling a niche when he opened Wine Garage, and he did—just
not the niche he expected. Locals, he soon figured out, often buy wine at
reduced rates through industry connections. Turns out, the shop was a bigger
hit with tourists than residents.
"I try not
to select a wine that visitors can find in their local wine shop," Miller said.
"I look for small producers and labels." It's an eclectic collection of wines,
a collection of more than 200 wines that often changes
Most labels
are from California and many are obscure while others are familiar, such as
Steele, Dry Creek, Monticello and Marietta. Miller won't go on record about the
prices of specific wines but—pssssst—I saw Black Kite Pinot Noir Kite's Rest
2008 selling at the shop for $25.
The concept
is similar to the popular Best Cellars stores on the East Coast. Each Best
Cellars outlet stocks 100 wines, all priced $15 and less. It's a cheapskate's
paradise and user-friendly for newbies, with wines that are color-coded by
style such as "Juicy," "Smooth" or "Big."
Wine Garage
may not have the buying power of a small chain like Best Cellars, but Miller said the slow economy makes it easier for him to find deals. He's certainly not
alone. Retailers and restaurateurs tell me they're inundated with discounts and
deals. "I find all sorts of wine that was originally priced at $45, $55 or $65
that I'm selling for $25," Miller said. White wines, as you might expect, are
considerably easier for Miller to stock than reds when faced with the under-$25 price point.
Miller
avoids the wrath of vintners because he can sell their excess inventory on the
cheap and do it with a low public profile. About 60 percent of Wine Garage's
revenue comes through its wine club, which is actually more of a personal wine
buying service. Six times a year members receive a half a case that Miller
selects from his inventory. Of course that means trusting his palate.
"I taste
crappy wines all day long before I find a winner," Miller said. "I often feel
like my job is to taste a lot of bad wine." His jug wines certainly are
appealing for the price, which is equivalent to about $12 a bottle. The
Bordeaux-style red, a non-vintage blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère,
Merlot and Petit Verdot, is supple and zesty, just fine for daily drinking.
Do
you know of any other retailers committed to value like Wine Garage? Would you
like to see a similar retailer in your neck of the country?
I drink
my share of $50 California Pinot Noirs and $70 Brunellos, but I can't afford to
open those on a Tuesday night. A few more places like Wine Garage would sure
make Tuesdays easier, even for those of us who work in Napa Valley.
I have belonged to this club. But I buy wine to learn and to be able to repeat my experience. If I taste good wine from the Garage, I can do no more. I do not know what it is,and I cannot get more of it.
As a result, it becomes a club to have good wine to consume - and then you are stuck.