St.-Emilion is known for an eclectic bunch of vignerons. A large appellation that’s divided into numerous small properties, the area prides itself on being a foil to the suit-and-tie crowd of the classified growths on Bordeaux’s Left Bank. The garagiste crazes of the ‘90s, when winemakers played a game of one-upsmanship with their wines, aiming for bigger and bolder along the way, was the appellation’s loudest pronouncement of that culture. While things have quieted down a bit today, it still makes sense that Jonathan Maltus would have set up shop here. I caught up with Maltus during my visit through the region this past December, and tasted his range of 2009s.
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