harvey steiman at large

Patina Delivers

Los Angeles’ most refined restaurant back on track
Posted: Jan 12, 2011 1:34pm ET

Last time I dined at Patina, I was underwhelmed. I was there about four years ago to check up on the Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning wine cellar. The cellar was in great shape. The kitchen seemed to be fumbling.

Since then, things have improved dramatically at this showcase restaurant in the Frank Gehry-designed Disney Hall. Chef Tony Esnault, who worked with Alain Ducasse in New York and was private chef to Martha Stewart before taking over the kitchen here in 2009, clearly has put the cuisine back on track. His work, a superbly selected and maintained cheese cart and the deep, appropriately stocked wine cellar, make Patina this city’s most refined restaurant experience.

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