Snapshots of Bordeaux
Tasting through the 1855 Classification
Posted: Jan 11, 2011 10:00am ET
My
first thought was, where's my tie? I do have one, specifically for occasions
like this: an invite to the French Embassy, to taste all the classified-growth Bordeaux of the 1855 classification.
The command came on a very stiff card, black embossed print, gold edging. Quite
correct. Gold. This is Bordeaux. They mine liquid gold there. So. How the hell
do I tie this thing?
It
is a bit tough tasting at the French Embassy. They don't really understand the
concept. There were no tasting sheets, and the bottles were randomly strewn
along the grand tables. The vintages went from 2001 to 2006 according to the
whim of the proprietor, and were proffered according to the whim of the
charming and elegant flunkies. No one seemed to be spitting. But the chance to
taste all the 1855 classification was enough for me to wheedle my way to the
front of the throng.
It
was a matter of tasting whatever I could lay my hands on, and by the end I'd
done the lot. Only Léoville Las Cases wasn't there. They never turn up. So I
never taste their wine. I'm told it's good.
Anyway,
I've put together a few thoughts on each appellation, and in the end I rather
enjoyed the wildly fluctuating differences between vintage styles, often
tasting the 2001, '02, '03 and '04 vintage of four different properties right
next to each other. So this is a snapshot of how things looked in London at the
start of this very chilly winter.
Haut-Médoc
showed pretty well. The big surprise was a positively classic Camensac 2002.
When was the last time the words "classic" and "Camensac" were used in the same
sentence? It also showed that we underrate 2002 at our peril. Belgrave 2004 was
its usual satisfyingly beefy self.
Margaux
is a crazy appellation, but I do have a soft spot for it, because of the sheer
delight its scented beauties give me when they get it right. And seeing the
whole bunch ranged across vintages 2001 to 2005 was a buzz. The best wine
wasn't Château Margaux 2001—mellow, yet hardly memorable—but
Malescot-St.-Exupéry 2001, showing all the heady perfume of the appellation
married to the soothing texture of the 2001 vintage. Suave, waxy Palmer 2001
wasn't far behind, while powerful Kirwan and plummy Desmirail banged the drum
for 2004. Giscours and Marquis de Terme made a case for the rather rapidly
maturing 2003 vintage.
St.-Julien
was great fun. Tremendous Langoa-Barton 2001 and Léoville-Barton 2004: These
were the two vintages that shone again and again. Branaire 2004 needs 10 years
to be classic, just like Lagrange 2004.
In
Pauillac, not for the first time, the fragrant Lafite 2001 and the mighty
Latour 2002 lorded it over the unexciting Mouton 2001.
Pichon-Baron 2001 is still gruff but will be majestic in five to 10 years, while
Pichon-Lalande 2003 is so lush and creamy, surely it can't age well? But it
will; it always does. Pontet-Canet signalled its return to the big time in
2004, and it just gets better and better. At the lower end, Grand-Puy-Ducasse
2004 has a beautiful, classic Pauillac personality; d'Armailhac 2003,
Duhart-Milon 2004, Croizet-Bages 2004 and Pedesclaux 2005 don't.
The
welcome surprise in St.-Estèphe was that Cos-d'Estournel 2003 really is as good
as the hype. Some of the 2003s are starting to show wear and tear; Cos is a
beautiful beast in snarling form. Cos Labory 2003 was also ripe and balanced,
while Lafon-Rochet 2001 was cedary and scented and as good as I can remember.
So,
a smashing evening, if slightly chaotic. And it reminded me once again that you
don't have to kneel before the starriest vintages to gain the ultimate pleasure
from Bordeaux. 2009? Invest in it. 2001 and 2004? Buy 'em, keep 'em and drink
'em.
Hi Oz, let me just say this is the 1st blog I have read of yours, and i loved it. I just spent a week tasting through many of the growths like you and am happy to hear some of the same things from you that I felt. Being a young Sommelier from California that makes me feel like I am doing something right!
I also was pleasantly surprised by the 2003 Armailhac, and overall am a bit surprised by how quickly the vintage is maturing overall for Bordeaux.
I tasted the 06 Leoville Las Cases as well as the 06 Ducru and they both shone as 2 of the best I tasted, along with a 96 Palmer, 04 Haut Brion, and 95 d'Yquem (my first time tasting the chateau!) It solidified that I truly love the St Julien wines like u love the Margaux style.
I was also greatly impressed in my trip by the rouge from Haut Bailly in Pessac for a good value and La Conseillante from Pomerol across the bank, what are your thoughts there?
Cheers
JNM
www.jnmwines.blogspot.com