For someone who loves the simplicity and directness of Italian food, especially when it comes from a wood-fired oven and hearth, the problem with the menu at Cotogna is in narrowing down the choices. As a result, extra dishes can easily make a simple lunch into an impromptu banquet.
Cotogna is the long-awaited casual sister to Quince, the much-lauded restaurant steeped in Italian cuisine. Michael Tusk’s kitchen turns out some of the best pasta anywhere, so it took all my restraint not to order all six of the primi on the menu earlier this week when my wife and I met a friend for our annual pre-Christmas lunch. But then, if we did, would we have enough appetite for one of the pizzas too? Or the spit-roasted pork or lamb chops scottadito? Not to mention a roster of vegetable dishes that are hard to pass up.
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