harvey steiman at large

A Different Approach to Wine

Honolulu's Chef Mavro focuses on what works with the food
Posted: Dec 7, 2010 3:32pm ET

On the plate, the food looks simple. Two thick slices of big-eye ahi tuna, a swirl of pink sauce and a pool of green sauce under a lovely little deep-fried quail egg garnish. I mix all the flavors together on my fork. The pink sauce buzzes with espelette, a sort of hot paprika-like pepper powder, and the delicate topping of green picholine olives on the tuna add another southern French touch. The green sauce of parsley and oregano jumps with freshness under a lovely little deep-fried quail egg.

Five adjacent wineglasses hold four whites and a rosé, but I have no idea what they are. The double-blind tasting is designed to ferret out which wine would please the most palates at one of my favorite restaurants anywhere, Chef Mavro in Honolulu. The owner and chef, George Mavrothalassitis, brings his finely honed French sensibilities to Hawaii's abundance of unique ingredients. It's exciting food, and it's wine-friendly.

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