
Angelo Gaja was Mr. Barbaresco until 1988, when he purchased a vineyard on prime land in the heart of Italy's Barolo wine country. The Gaja family winery had made Barolo from purchased grapes (including that vineyard) until 1961, when a young Angelo convinced his father to go all-estate and build their reputation on Barbaresco, grown on their own land.
Back in 1993, when the ’89 Sperss came out, I acquired some in a mixed case of the Gaja reds. (Back then they were more affordable than they are now.) I drank several early on, but I pulled out the last one for a late dinner after a 6:30 p.m. symphony concert in San Francisco.
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