Cloud Surfing in Piedmont
Back in Italy to catch up with a few dozen producers
Posted: Nov 8, 2010 3:00pm ET
I'm back
in La Morra and in the clouds. Literally.
Bruno Viberti, the gracious owner of the Corte Gondina
hotel where I am staying, told me it wasn't fog, but low clouds. La Morra is at
nearly 1,700 feet in elevation, in the foothills of the Alps. From the lookout
point at the top of the hill you can see Barolo, nestled in the valley, and the
hilltop towns of Monforte d'Alba, Castiglione Falletto, with its cylindrical
tower and the brooding fortress of Serralunga d'Alba. At least, when you are
not in the clouds. Today, I could see nothing.
About three years ago, I stayed in La Morra during my "Nine Days of Nebbiolo" vacation to the region to learn more about its wines. You can read about those visits in my blog archives from late November and early December 2007.
On this
trip, I will visit 20 or so producers, casting the net a little wider than the
Barolo and Barbaresco DOCGs, to Gavi, Roero, Dogliani and Asti.
Did I
mention it's truffle season?
I arrived
Saturday morning and had a casual lunch in the village at More e Macine Osteria
+ Wine Bar. For the first dish, I chose the tajarin ragu, a hand-cut
tagliatelle typical of the region, followed by roasted rabbit. From the
chalkboard list of wines by the glass, I tried a straightforward Dolcetto
d'Alba 2009 from Agostino Bosco, followed by Alessandro Veglio's Barbera d'Alba
2008. The latter offered a mouthful of juicy, ripe, blackberry jam flavor and
lip-smacking acidity. Perfect with the rabbit.
The small
restaurant was packed. When I walked outside, there were as many people as
inside, waiting for tables. As I walked into the street, I recognized a
familiar face. It was Alain Graillot, the vigneron from Crozes-Hermitage.
It's
a small world, even in the clouds.
Thank you for your insight and experience with one of the most interesting and historic lands on earth. I can not wait to read more about your experience in the clouds.