I'm back in La Morra and in the clouds. Literally.
Bruno Viberti, the gracious owner of the Corte Gondina hotel where I am staying, told me it wasn't fog, but low clouds. La Morra is at nearly 1,700 feet in elevation, in the foothills of the Alps. From the lookout point at the top of the hill you can see Barolo, nestled in the valley, and the hilltop towns of Monforte d'Alba, Castiglione Falletto, with its cylindrical tower and the brooding fortress of Serralunga d'Alba. At least, when you are not in the clouds. Today, I could see nothing.
About three years ago, I stayed in La Morra during my "Nine Days of Nebbiolo" vacation to the region to learn more about its wines. You can read about those visits in my blog archives from late November and early December 2007.
On this trip, I will visit 20 or so producers, casting the net a little wider than the Barolo and Barbaresco DOCGs, to Gavi, Roero, Dogliani and Asti.
Did I mention it's truffle season?
I arrived Saturday morning and had a casual lunch in the village at More e Macine Osteria + Wine Bar. For the first dish, I chose the tajarin ragu, a hand-cut tagliatelle typical of the region, followed by roasted rabbit. From the chalkboard list of wines by the glass, I tried a straightforward Dolcetto d'Alba 2009 from Agostino Bosco, followed by Alessandro Veglio's Barbera d'Alba 2008. The latter offered a mouthful of juicy, ripe, blackberry jam flavor and lip-smacking acidity. Perfect with the rabbit.
The small restaurant was packed. When I walked outside, there were as many people as inside, waiting for tables. As I walked into the street, I recognized a familiar face. It was Alain Graillot, the vigneron from Crozes-Hermitage.
It's a small world, even in the clouds.
Shawn Dore — US — November 8, 2010 10:34pm ET
Jeremy Matouk — Port of Spain, Trinidad — November 9, 2010 5:06pm ET
Eric P Guido — New York, NY — November 9, 2010 8:07pm ET
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