
No sooner was I back from the rush of our annual Wine Experience in Las Vegas at the end of October, and it was time to head out to France's Rhône Valley again. I’ll be focusing on the Southern Rhône this time (I alternate trips between the north and south) and will be tasting the 2009 vintage primarily. My annual tasting report, which covers the bulk of the 2008s that are now in stores, is in the current Nov. 30 issue.
The Southern Rhône’s 2009 vintage may sound like a broken record—it’s potentially outstanding and continues a decade of superb vintages, save for 2002 and 2008. The '09 growing season was warm and dry and ripening came relatively early and easily. The sanitary conditions in the vineyards were ideal leading to wines with excellent color, aromas and abundant tannins. Yields were generally normal, so there shouldn’t be the slightly diffuse edge of a vintage like 2000, for example (which had excellent quality, but higher yields). The tannins in ‘09 are copious, but they’re more polished than the formidable 2005s, yet not as soft as the ‘07s, so the vintage looks to be a cross of the two, structure-wise, but with similar levels of concentration, fruit-wise.
While I visit domaines, I’ll be posting on my blog my impressions of the wines from the cellars. I’ll try and give you insight into how the producers work and a feel for their respective wine styles.
As always, the domaines I visit are based on the results of my always-ongoing tastings in New York. It’s there that I officially review wines based on blind tastings of formal, bottled, properly labeled wines. After those tastings, I head out into the field to meet with the vignerons who are producing the best and most exciting wines from the region. I see some producers on a regular basis, but look for quite a few new domaines (or first-time visits for me) during this upcoming trip.
When I report on my cellar visits, there are no scores on the wines I taste. Since the wines are not tasted blind, a formal score, even a range, is premature in my opinion. If you’re looking for purchasing advice on wines before they arrive here though, don’t worry—I think you’ll be able to glean enough qualitative assessments from my blogging.
I’ll be starting first in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, before heading into Gigondas and then the village of Cairanne. I’ll be reporting on a range of domaines, from sought-after collectibles to small, value-priced wines you may not have heard of. And any truffles I have along the way are purely incidental.
[You can now follow James Molesworth on Twitter, at http://twitter.com/jmolesworth1]
David A Zajac — Akron, OH — November 9, 2010 12:28pm ET
Tony Wood — Brighton U.K. — November 9, 2010 1:21pm ET
Hi James
BRING IT ON....
James Molesworth — Senior Editor, Wine Spectator — November 9, 2010 2:50pm ET
David: yes, Gigondas has improved in recent vintages. More producers are destemming more and refining the tannins in their wines, and it's leading to some great stuff...in particular, the cuvées made from the limestone soils in the higher elevations, such as those from St.-Cosme...
David A Zajac — Akron, OH — November 9, 2010 3:51pm ET
Agree, St. Cosme is probably at the top of the list, I also recently had a 2007 Santa Duc that was stunning. They stack up pretty well against the top of the line C du P's, and are, even for the top cuvee's, maybe half the price of the big boys.
Aaron Meeker — Kansas City, KS — November 9, 2010 11:52pm ET
James,
What about Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie as a vintage?
Aaron
Pauline Decloedt — canada — November 10, 2010 9:27am ET
John, will you be visiting Joel Saurel at Domaine Saint-Damien just outside Gigondas? Making wines of excellent quality from old vines without the price tag - picked up some of his 07's that I am excited about drinking.
James Molesworth — Senior Editor, Wine Spectator — November 10, 2010 12:39pm ET
Pauline: Who's John?
No, I do not have St.-Damien on my schedule this time (I try to mix in new faces on each trip through the area). You can use the site search function though and read my notes from my last visit there - they are doing excellent work, along with consultant Philippe Cambie...
Keir Mccartney — League City,TX — November 10, 2010 5:32pm ET
I recently bought a case of 2007 Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas. Delicious and a great price point. There is so much value in the southern Rhone. It keeps me coming back. I know you are working James but do try to have some fun :0)
Phil Roberts — Palatine, IL — November 10, 2010 6:39pm ET
Seems like it's been a long time. Glad you're back.
Andrew J Walter — Sacramento, CA — November 10, 2010 9:30pm ET
awesome...you've definately turned me on to many souther rhones...some of the few "old world" wines that I actually enjoy. Also, when are you heading to Bordeaux? I'd love to hear your take on things.
James Molesworth — Senior Editor, Wine Spectator — November 11, 2010 2:06am ET
Keir: The Brechet family has really turned things around at Bousquets, as well as their CdP property, Vaudieu, which I will be visiting later this week...
Phil: Any time away from the Rhône, 'seems' like a long time...;-)
Andrew: My first official trip to Bordeaux will be - right after I get back from this trip!
I'll be tasting the finished '08s in early December as well as making an initial round of visits. Hopefully my kids will recognize me when I get home finally...
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Have a great trip, can't wait to start planning on which 2009's to add to my ever growing cellar of CduP's...and recently Gigondas as well. Over the past few vintages, maybe starting with the 2005's, the upper end producers there are making just unbelievable wines too.