Of all the new restaurants in Las Vegas’ City Center, which opened in December, Twist by Pierre Gagnaire intrigued me most. The renowned French chef, holder of three Michelin stars for his eponymous Paris restaurant, joined his French peers Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy and Alain Ducasse in betting on Las Vegas.
Only this time the odds are different. Robuchon, Savoy and Ducasse arrived four to seven years ago, when the high-rollers were rolling at their highest and the pickings were ripe. How hard is it today to woo customers with $50-plus entrees and $180 menus in a hotel with no casino to help defray the expenses and fatten the wine list? More to the point, now that it’s been operational for six months, how well does Gagnaire stack up with his peers, both French and American, in Las Vegas?
To find out, I made a reservation under another name and dined there with my wife last week.
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