Randy Dunn has been one of California's most vocal opponents of high-alcohol wines. Recently, we met to talk about the trend toward riper grapes and rising alcohol levels. He's in the camp that wines shouldn't exceed 14 percent alcohol.
We met last week, over a flight of six variations on his 2007 Washington state Cabernet, which Dunn is making under the Feather label. The wines Dunn poured ranged from 13.7 to 15.1 percent alcohol, with stops at 14, 14.3, 14.7 and 15 in between. To demonstrate a point, the original wine had been doctored to lower the alcohol levels, using reverse osmosis.
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