My two children were supposed to fly out on Friday to Manchester, England, from Florence, Italy, but their flight was canceled like hundreds of others in Europe due to the live volcano in Iceland. We were sitting around the small airport in a daze and I thought let's go up and check out the winery of Bibi Graetz in the hills of Fiesole just about the renaissance city. They didn't mind. They were happy not to go back to gray England. So we drove up and checked it out.
Bibi, 43, makes one of Tuscany's true cult wines, Testamatta. It's a pure Sangiovese that has the race and breed of a grand cru Burgundy. Think of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's La Tâche. I like to go up and talk wine with Bibi every once in a while. He is a freak for old vines in Tuscany.
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