Some wines are lucky, starting out with a bang as they hit qualitative heights right out of the gate, never looking back. Other wines take time before they become great, perhaps increasing their complexity and quality as vineyards mature. At Chile’s Viña MontGras, the winery’s flagship Ninquén bottling of Cabernet Sauvignon was one of the lucky ones, earning a 92-point review for its debut 2000 release in 2003. But then, oddly, it went downhill...
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