Bruce Sanderson is in Burgundy tasting the soon-to-be-released 2007 reds and whites. The evaluations of individual wines below are score ranges, because most wines were tasted non-blind from barrel or tank, or had recently been bottled. Sometimes the tastings took place in cold cellars, giving the wines a harder, more angular impression. Final reviews will be based on blind tastings in Wine Spectator's New York office.
My next tasting took me from Vosne-Romanée, south to Volnay, and the cellar of Nicolas Rossignol. He is one of the young generation of winemakers in Burgundy who is constantly questioning, always tasting and discussing with colleagues about ways to improve his work in the vineyard and cellar. For example, he used a good proportion of stems in his 2006 reds, but none in 2007; in the 2008 vintage, stems were again part of the vinifications. Joining us was Thomas Bouley of Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley, a fellow Volnaysien grower.
We tasted a range of 2007s from Rossignol and a few from Bouley, along with half a dozen 2006s. The following are highlights of the '07s. All but four of the wines in the cellar have been racked and assembled for bottling.
Rossignol makes a Pernand-Vergelesses Les Fichots, a premier cru well-situated next to Les Basses Vergelesses and just beneath Ile des Hautes Vergelesses. From the two parcels, only the old vines go into this bottling. Cherry and mineral greeted the senses, with firm, tight tannins for support and fine intensity and length (87-90).
From among the Volnay appellations, the Caillerets was very classy, showing red cherry, strawberry and floral notes, all in a straight line, with well-integrated, finely grained tannins (88-91). The Fremiets lies about mid-slope, where the 25-year-old vines ripen quickly in the white soil. Tightly wound, it displayed cherry and raspberry flavors with plenty of tension and a long aftertaste (88-91).
|Bruce Sanderson visits Burgundy's Volnay.|
David Smith — Austin, TX — January 28, 2009 12:43am ET
Bruce Sanderson — New York — February 12, 2009 1:41pm ET
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