Friday morning, early, found me at Domaine Bernard Morey in Chassagne-Montrachet. I knew some of the wines well from my days at Burgundy Wine Company in the early 1990s. Thomas Morey, son of the current proprietor, did a stage there not long after I had joined Wine Spectator.
I liked the 2004s and 2005s from this domaine and was excited about tasting the 2006s.
“There was a good maturity in 2006, the grapes were very, very ripe,” said Bernard Morey, adding that “Only one cuvée was chaptalized.” All the wines were bottled after the 2007 harvest.
I liked the fresh, lime-tinged Bourgogne (85-88), but the wines reached another level with the St.-Aubin Les Charmois, from grapes planted in 1957. Not much in the way of aromas now, but it was rich, with a core of mineral accented by citrus (88-91). The Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes, a sentimental favorite, delivered lovely aromas of flowers and lime introducing peach and honey notes and had a long, mouthwatering finish (88-91).
The Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St.-Jean, with its rich profile, pear and mineral flavors and long finish (89-92) contrasted nicely with the refined, vibrant Les Chenevottes (89-92). The Les Baudines, from several hillside parcels adjacent to Santenay, was fresh, evoking citrus, stone and floral flavors, like water over rocks, with a long finish (89-92).
|The Montrachet vineyard, a mile north of of Chassagne-Montrachet.|
Jason Thompson — Foster City, CA — January 24, 2008 5:44pm ET
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