It¹s sort of weird that Pierre Lurton, the president of Château d'Yquem, said that his favorite dish with old bottles of his famous sweet wine is sweetbreads (riz de veau). He said that he particularly likes a slightly drier Yquem, like 1975, with the well-known offal.
I am not sure I would order sweetbreads and Yquem in a restaurant. In fact, I had some crispy sweetbreads last week at David Myers' new deluxe bistro, Comme Ça, and as good as the offal was, I never thought of a sticky wine with it. Stay tuned for a blog on the restaurant. I really liked the buzz and the food.
Anyway, I must say that the best dish of the Yquem tasting at Spago from superstar chef Wolfgang Puck was a roasted monkfish wrapped in prosciutto with an onion date puree. The almost sweet, moist fish and smoky ham with a fruity sauce brought all the fruit out in the Yquems of that flight.
Sorry for the video with this. I ate most of the dish before I remembered to video it! But Pierre's comments are fun, even insightful.
Here are my tasting notes of the wines in that flight with the monkfish:
1976: Dark color. It took a little time to open in the glass. Pear tart with caramel, honey and toast. Lots of dried fruits on the nose. Masses of it. Full bodied, with very sweet palate and a tea, dried mushroom, apricots and honey, Long and very rich. Gorgeous. Loads of dried fruit on the finish. 96 points, non-blind.
1975: This shows dry apricots and botrytis spice on the nose with lots of honey and caramel. Full and very sweet. Loads of tart tartine, dried pineapple. it goes on and on. So racy and wonderful. This has been slightly overshadowed by the 1976. But it¹s better tonight. What a finish. 98 points, non-blind.
1948: Amazing aromas of chocolate, toasted coconut, dried fruit, fruit cake and orange peel. Full bodied, with an intense dried fruit palate. Almost raisiny. Powerful and very rich. You can see the heat in the growing period. This is dense and gorgeous. 96, non-blind.
1947: Very dark amber almost brown with a yellow rim. Candied apples with tart Tatin, orange peel, tea and Turkish delight. Brown sugar. Full bodied, very sweet. Dense and powerful with loads of dried fruit on the palate. Lots of dried fruit. 95, non-blind.
1934: Orange peel, caramel, tart tartine and candied orange. Full and very fruity. Lots of orange peel, botrytis spice and a toasted almond and orange peel character. Beauitful but not that sweet. 90, non-blind.
Puck also served a roasted breast of pheasant with a buttered squash sauce as well as slice of Kobe steak with glazed matsutake mushrooms for other flights of Yquem. The later course was an awesome combination. The almost smoky beef with a sweet, earthy undertone from the funghi combined perfectly with the ultra sweet, almost nutty old Yquems. So yummy.
I used to think that great Sauternes, or great sticky wines in general, had to go with blue cheese, foie gras, or dessert, but Wolfgang really pushed the limits at the Yquem tasting last weekend. I might have to dust off some of the bottles of Sauternes in my cellar in Italy and pop a few with my Florentine steak!
Stuart Jakub — November 7, 2007 5:08pm ET
Tony Wood — Brighton U.K. — November 8, 2007 7:45am ET
Alexander M Medina — Roseville, CA — November 9, 2007 1:06pm ET
James Suckling — — November 9, 2007 6:23pm ET
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